Scaling New Heights
Join Date: Aug 2015
Location: Burnaby, BC
Interest: hiking, climbing, travel, skiing
I can't see the rope in the bottom traverse spot. Did they just go for it unroped? What kind of system did you use for the difficult parts? Fixed line or belay?
Although the bottom part is inclined towards dropoff, it is actually pretty flat and wide with plenty of secure handholds, and therefore we did not use a rope there. There used to be a fixed rope attached here two years ago, but it has been removed, probably because people realized that this loose fixed rope would not save anyone in case of a fall anyway. There was a worn piton inserted into a small crack on the upper part of the traverse that can be used to fix a rope, but it did not look reliable to us.
I saw one guy walking across this traverse casually without using handholds. He stumbled at one point and my heart sank, but he kept his balance and continued walking down. We used a rope belay for kids for the steep climbing section on the way up next to the ridge and a belay rope for an exposed second traverse from the ridge. Most hikers that scramble the summit do not use any ropes. We did not use any protection two years ago.
Last edited by Lenagen; 09-28-2017 at 01:07 AM.