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post #1 of (permalink) Old 09-06-2015, 05:19 PM Thread Starter
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Default East Lion

Hello all, just wondering if these two climbers that were on the East Lion yesterday(Saturday) post on CT? I have been eyeing it up for some time, but i'm little hesitant to ascend it the first time solo, without enough intel.

I would love it if anyone that has climbed the East Lion, would be willing to let me tag along on a trip before the snow falls this year. I have done the West Lion around 20 times, and have explored much of the area and I've got a 30m rope and enough gear to rappel.

Please PM me or reply here

Levi
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post #2 of (permalink) Old 09-06-2015, 05:29 PM
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I know Steven Song that posts on this forum has just been on East Lion (perhaps it was even him you saw). You can try to contact him
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post #3 of (permalink) Old 09-06-2015, 07:19 PM
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post #4 of (permalink) Old 09-06-2015, 07:25 PM
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Yes it's me and Vlad (Culator).

I was planning to ascent West Lion and East Lion solo but met a guy partway up West Lion. He caught me up from behind and after a bit of chatting we started to recgonize each other from ClubTread.. Then he agreed to join me for E. Lion, and we climb'd it together.

Trip reports coming soon.
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post #5 of (permalink) Old 09-06-2015, 09:18 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks Muskeeto, I found that TR also. It is very useful!
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post #6 of (permalink) Old 09-07-2015, 12:34 AM
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https://forums.clubtread.com/27-briti...30-2012-a.html

The above link is the same S. Face route but Dean has provided a route line. I was loosely following that line. The wetness made the final gully a bit more interesting.. Did two 30-meter rappels (2 x 30m, 8mm ropes) on descent. If it's dry then we would only need 1 rappel. But still, by "Rockies standard" I would say it's an easy climb, rather than a scramble (felt even harder and more sustained than the W. Ridge of Pigeon Spire for a quick comparison).

I did not use, but rock shoes would be helpful (if dry) as a lot of the holds/ledges are down-sloping, and expect some severe exposure.
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post #7 of (permalink) Old 09-07-2015, 01:32 AM Thread Starter
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Wow thanks, Dean's TR is awesome!
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post #8 of (permalink) Old 09-07-2015, 01:43 AM
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You certainly jumped right into it Steven ;-)
But I agree with you, re East Lion an (easy) climb rather than scramble - although I hear talk now of some hidden 'bush' route somewhere on the other side that IS a scramble.

I'm curious how you are going to rate Habrich; I always thought it would be in same bag as Smuts.
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post #9 of (permalink) Old 09-07-2015, 02:36 AM
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Jack: Yeah I've heard of the Great Thrash, but the S. Face looked more fun. Well, "4th class" anyway so how bad can it be... But then all the trip reports I've read involve rope work (thus I brought mine up). I did it in wet condition, on boots, and free solo (no belay since Vlad just joined me during the trip thus no climbing gears). The technical pitch felt like exposed 5.4 to me but that could be the wetness and the mental stress. But from experience I can tell climbers from different ranges rate routes differently. A 4th class route in the Selkirks can be much harder than a "difficult scramble" in the Rockies. But to be honest, if E. Lion is only 4th class then the entire route on E. Ridge of Edith Cavell is also 4th class...

Habrich looks fun. I might go for Sky Pilot + Copilot first though. Anyone interested in these 3 can let me know. [email protected]
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post #10 of (permalink) Old 09-07-2015, 02:52 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by StevenSong View Post
Habrich looks fun. I might go for Sky Pilot + Copilot first though. Anyone interested in these 3 can let me know. [email protected]
Sky Pilot will be easy for you; I understand Stadium glacier is bare this year so you might need to circumvent to the right. Copilot is more difficult & you might need a rope, but I think you can bag both at the same time. For someone fit and fast like you I'd recommend "Shannon Basin loop" -- Sky Pilot, Co-pilot, then return to gondola via Skyline Ridge (very scenic, personal fav)
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post #11 of (permalink) Old 09-08-2015, 05:43 PM
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Yes you can currently bypass Stadium Glacier. I have attached a couple pictures from when I went up Sky Pilot last Saturday (Sept 5th). I will follow up with a full trip report in the next day or two.


I would be interested in doing Co-Pilot some time, does anyone have any Beta on this climb? Habrich looks interesting too, what route would you be looking at doing? I'm considering doing this route some time, maybe next year. http://quickdrawpublications.com/wp/...20Velocity.pdf
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post #12 of (permalink) Old 09-08-2015, 09:47 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cinderss View Post
Yes you can currently bypass Stadium Glacier. I have attached a couple pictures from when I went up Sky Pilot last Saturday (Sept 5th). I will follow up with a full trip report in the next day or two.


I would be interested in doing Co-Pilot some time, does anyone have any Beta on this climb? Habrich looks interesting too, what route would you be looking at doing? I'm considering doing this route some time, maybe next year. http://quickdrawpublications.com/wp/...20Velocity.pdf
The Copilot: Check Simon's trip report
https://forums.clubtread.com/27-briti...l-16-09-a.html

Habrich: Again all I've read is Simon's trip report (a really hard scramble or an easy climb). Escape Velocity looks super cool, but 5.9 on granite is out of my league now. I'll have to work a lot on crack skills.

Sky Pilot: How was the water source along the approach? I'd rather not hauling a ton of water if I don't have to.
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post #13 of (permalink) Old 09-09-2015, 12:02 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by StevenSong View Post
5.9 on granite is out of my league now. I'll have to work a lot on crack skills.
It's really more like 5.7
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post #14 of (permalink) Old 09-09-2015, 12:10 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by StevenSong View Post
Sky Pilot: How was the water source along the approach? I'd rather not hauling a ton of water if I don't have to.
there is a nice stream right at the base of the glacier!
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post #15 of (permalink) Old 09-11-2015, 10:48 PM
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Correct me if I'm wrong, but isn't the East Lion in the watershed and therefore off limits ??
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