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post #1 of (permalink) Old 07-17-2015, 10:55 PM Thread Starter
Scaling New Heights
 
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Default Summer snow climbs

I am really interested in climbing Wedge mountain, NE Arete, because the guidebook says it is an area classic, and the line is very appealing. However recent reports suggest the snow would be mostly gone, taking that appeal away...

What other mountaineering objectives are similar to Wedge? I like the fact that I can go solo and avoid objective hazard, or go as a rope team across the glacier, with both lines being just as enjoyable. I like snow climbs and scrambles, but I really would like to avoid talus or boulder slogs.
I have both the alpine select and scrambling guidebook, but I want to hear personal opinions on other snow climbs that would be doable as a single person or two person team.

Thanks in advance!
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post #2 of (permalink) Old 07-20-2015, 12:56 AM
Dru
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This is a bad year for snow. Right now it's mostly either ice or scree. Sorry.
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post #3 of (permalink) Old 07-20-2015, 01:09 AM
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Go to the Chehalis. No snow climbing there right now, but awesome rock routes and full value adventure.

In terms of difficulty, the W Ridge on Rexford is about the same, but it's entirely on rock, no snow climbing.

Last edited by trail_blazer3; 07-20-2015 at 01:12 AM.
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post #4 of (permalink) Old 07-20-2015, 10:22 PM Thread Starter
Scaling New Heights
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dru View Post
This is a bad year for snow. Right now it's mostly either ice or scree. Sorry.
I thought this too, but I was hoping I was wrong

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Originally Posted by trail_blazer3 View Post
Go to the Chehalis. No snow climbing there right now, but awesome rock routes and full value adventure.

In terms of difficulty, the W Ridge on Rexford is about the same, but it's entirely on rock, no snow climbing.
I heard the approach for the Chehalis area is pretty horrendous, but I will look again. Looking into Rexford now. Thanks!
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post #5 of (permalink) Old 07-21-2015, 12:49 AM
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Slalok North Face?
Shuksan Fisher Chimneys?
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post #6 of (permalink) Old 07-23-2015, 12:59 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stever View Post
I heard the approach for the Chehalis area is pretty horrendous, but I will look again.
Access isn't too bad at the moment. Long-ish drive on decent logging roads. The hiking can be a bit bushy at times, but the quality of climbing up there is well worth it.

But like ecarter1 mentioned, there might be some snow climbs left.
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post #7 of (permalink) Old 07-24-2015, 10:32 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by ecarter1 View Post
Slalok North Face?
Shuksan Fisher Chimneys?
Have you done the north face of Slalok (also known as the stonecrop face (McLane guide))? Any guesses on the conditions, considering how warm it's been? All ice vs. a mixture of snow and ice?

Thanks!
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post #8 of (permalink) Old 07-28-2015, 01:04 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stever View Post
Have you done the north face of Slalok (also known as the stonecrop face (McLane guide))? Any guesses on the conditions, considering how warm it's been? All ice vs. a mixture of snow and ice?

Thanks!
I have. I don't think it would be ALL ice but it would certainly be some ice.
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post #9 of (permalink) Old 05-25-2016, 03:12 PM Thread Starter
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Looking for some suggestions for this year now as well

Thanks
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post #10 of (permalink) Old 05-25-2016, 03:49 PM
Dru
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Zero Gully between Rideout and Payne is probably in really good shape right now. There might be a couple steps you would possibly want to rope up for.

The Rideout/Silvertip gully and then west ridge of Silvertip to the summit is substantially easier & in the same basin.

NW face of Castle Towers, north face of Fitzsimmons - both of these are pushing into snow/ice in summer, definitely a fair bit steeper than Wedge.
Ditto the north facing routes on the Weart/Owls ridge.

These all get into AD terrain.

Then you have another step up to Central Couloir on Joffre, a D- for sure.
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post #11 of (permalink) Old 05-30-2016, 12:55 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dru View Post
Zero Gully between Rideout and Payne is probably in really good shape right now. There might be a couple steps you would possibly want to rope up for.

The Rideout/Silvertip gully and then west ridge of Silvertip to the summit is substantially easier & in the same basin.

NW face of Castle Towers, north face of Fitzsimmons - both of these are pushing into snow/ice in summer, definitely a fair bit steeper than Wedge.
Ditto the north facing routes on the Weart/Owls ridge.

These all get into AD terrain.

Then you have another step up to Central Couloir on Joffre, a D- for sure.
Thanks, haven't heard of some of those so I will open the book and check them out
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post #12 of (permalink) Old 05-30-2016, 04:39 PM
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I think Baker is your best bet, especially now before the glacier opens up. The North Ridge can be as straight-forward, technically, as Wedge, or a little harder depending on what the serac is like to get past. The big difference, of course, is the approach: definitely far more involved than Wedge or most of the other suggestions, and with more vertical. Overall, more committing that Wedge (altho less remote than some of Dru's suggestions.) You will probably need a partner, too, given the crevasse hazard on the approach.
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post #13 of (permalink) Old 06-25-2017, 01:32 PM Thread Starter
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I finally got on Slalok north face recently, and the conditions this year was snow all the way to the top.

Excited to check out some other ones. Any thoughts on when the north face of Wedge or the northeast face of Matier would turn from snow to ice this year? Both look very inviting
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post #14 of (permalink) Old 06-25-2017, 10:49 PM
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Both should be prime right about now. Shrunds will be opening up soon.
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post #15 of (permalink) Old 07-06-2017, 07:50 PM Thread Starter
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I think Matier N. Face is off the list...this changes the face significantly...
https://www.mountainconditions.com/reports/deep-slab
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