Does anyone have information on climbing Mt. Garibaldi and the route from Elfin? - ClubTread Community

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post #1 of (permalink) Old 07-15-2015, 03:11 AM Thread Starter
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Default Does anyone have information on climbing Mt. Garibaldi and the route from Elfin?

I've been following this forum for a bit now but finally decided to make an account!

I've been wanting to climb garibaldi for a while now. It's always just staring me in the face when you hike black tusk and panorama. Anyhow, I know that people generally get to mt garibaldi from elfin, and keep going from there but I've never been further than the elfin lake campground and I can't seem to find information anywhere on the route to take. Of course I also want to make sure that I get the right approach from the correct/easiest face.

SO, if anyone has that information I would really really appreciate it. Additionally if you have personal experience with it please let me know. Difficulty, what to watch out for, what to expect, etc.

=D
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post #2 of (permalink) Old 07-15-2015, 09:55 AM
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Garibaldi from the east, May 30th this year. Close up from a couple weeks ago.


The "easiest" route is from Little DH, across the glacier bench below Atwell, cross onto Bishop Glacier and diagonal up to the right. The crevasses are badly exposed this year. I would give it a pass. When I did it we camped on top of Gargoyles, packed skis up and skied down. It was late June a few years back. Didn't rope up either.
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post #3 of (permalink) Old 07-15-2015, 11:20 AM Thread Starter
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Garibaldi from the east, May 30th this year. Close up from a couple weeks ago.


The "easiest" route is from Little DH, across the glacier bench below Atwell, cross onto Bishop Glacier and diagonal up to the right. The crevasses are badly exposed this year. I would give it a pass. When I did it we camped on top of Gargoyles, packed skis up and skied down. It was late June a few years back. Didn't rope up either.
Damn... That's what I was afraid of. Are they bad to the point of making the climb extremely difficult?

And I keep hearing people mentioning some snow/ice bridge. Is that apart of the route you're mentioning and can you bypass it?

Thank you for the information and pictures by the way, much appreciated.
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post #4 of (permalink) Old 07-15-2015, 12:05 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Num3n View Post
I've been following this forum for a bit now but finally decided to make an account!

I've been wanting to climb garibaldi for a while now. It's always just staring me in the face when you hike black tusk and panorama. Anyhow, I know that people generally get to mt garibaldi from elfin, and keep going from there but I've never been further than the elfin lake campground and I can't seem to find information anywhere on the route to take. Of course I also want to make sure that I get the right approach from the correct/easiest face.

SO, if anyone has that information I would really really appreciate it. Additionally if you have personal experience with it please let me know. Difficulty, what to watch out for, what to expect, etc.

=D
Get a copy of "Alpine Select" and read the route description.
If you have no mountaineering experience, just hiking, you might want to try something simpler first. Not that Garibaldi is particularly hard, just that there are other first glaciated mountain routes that are significantly easier to learn on, like the Easton Glacier on Baker.
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post #5 of (permalink) Old 07-15-2015, 08:32 PM Thread Starter
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Get a copy of "Alpine Select" and read the route description.
If you have no mountaineering experience, just hiking, you might want to try something simpler first. Not that Garibaldi is particularly hard, just that there are other first glaciated mountain routes that are significantly easier to learn on, like the Easton Glacier on Baker.
Really good advice, thank you. I'll look into picking that up and exploring other options for routes. And I want to add that I have climbing experience but not mountaineering exactly.

Last edited by Num3n; 07-16-2015 at 02:55 AM.
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post #6 of (permalink) Old 07-16-2015, 12:15 PM
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Unless you have aid climbing and/or ice climbing experience it is likely that your previous climbing experience is not very relevant. Being able to lead a 5.11 crack or clip bolts on a sport route is unimportant - the important skills are being able to self-arrest (on hard snow, or possibly on ice), do a free-hanging prusik, build a Z+C hauling system on sloping ice, and run a Kiwi coil with an alpine butterfly

Last edited by Dru; 07-16-2015 at 12:17 PM.
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post #7 of (permalink) Old 07-16-2015, 12:39 PM
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Mt Baker (coleman-deming route), and the Anniversary Glacier in the Joffre area are good areas to practice glacier travel. Garibaldi seems to be more complex, and in a year like this would be challenging.

If you're looking to learn about technical skills and some basic strategy, Mountaineering: Freedom of the Hills is a good reference, if you don't have it already.
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post #8 of (permalink) Old 07-17-2015, 03:02 AM Thread Starter
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Unless you have aid climbing and/or ice climbing experience it is likely that your previous climbing experience is not very relevant. Being able to lead a 5.11 crack or clip bolts on a sport route is unimportant - the important skills are being able to self-arrest (on hard snow, or possibly on ice), do a free-hanging prusik, build a Z+C hauling system on sloping ice, and run a Kiwi coil with an alpine butterfly

I appreciate the insight, I've been doing a significant amount of reading about garibaldi at this time of the year and especially this year itself and it really doesn't seem like a good idea to do it now unfortunately as you guys have been saying.


Are there alternative hikes/climbs that you might suggest?



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Originally Posted by trail_blazer3 View Post
Mt Baker (coleman-deming route), and the Anniversary Glacier in the Joffre area are good areas to practice glacier travel. Garibaldi seems to be more complex, and in a year like this would be challenging.

If you're looking to learn about technical skills and some basic strategy, Mountaineering: Freedom of the Hills is a good reference, if you don't have it already.
Hey thanks very much for the suggestion, i'll investigate it. And no i don't have it yet

*edit- i'm having a hard time finding route information at joffre on google - all that keeps coming up are either guided climbing links, or news articles on those who have died climbing it. And I forgot to mention that I have a friend with mountaineering experience and the plan is to learn and practice the different skills before heading up. Albeit, I agree with you both that it is still a good idea to start small and basic and go from there.

Last edited by Num3n; 07-17-2015 at 04:29 AM.
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post #9 of (permalink) Old 07-20-2015, 12:07 AM
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Like Dru mentioned, go get or peruse a copy of the Alpine Select by Kevin McLane next time you're at MEC, or some other outdoors store. Matt Gunn has a scrambles book that also has the technically easiest route up Joffre (besides the Aussie Couloir, which is no longer in condition, at least for my liking). MG also has some good scrambles in his book that are well worth doing.

Depending on what you're looking for, the Coleman-Deming route on Mt Baker is worthwhile for a glacier outing, or the N Ridge on Tricouni if you're looking to cover more rock (minor glacier crossing depending on route choice).
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post #10 of (permalink) Old 07-22-2015, 09:20 PM Thread Starter
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Like Dru mentioned, go get or peruse a copy of the Alpine Select by Kevin McLane next time you're at MEC, or some other outdoors store. Matt Gunn has a scrambles book that also has the technically easiest route up Joffre (besides the Aussie Couloir, which is no longer in condition, at least for my liking). MG also has some good scrambles in his book that are well worth doing.

Depending on what you're looking for, the Coleman-Deming route on Mt Baker is worthwhile for a glacier outing, or the N Ridge on Tricouni if you're looking to cover more rock (minor glacier crossing depending on route choice).

I'll pickup the book for sure, thank you. And what do you mean the aussie col is no longer in condition? Has it deteriorated from too much melt or?
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post #11 of (permalink) Old 07-22-2015, 11:29 PM
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I'll pickup the book for sure, thank you. And what do you mean the aussie col is no longer in condition? Has it deteriorated from too much melt or?
There is definitely no snow in the aussie right now. Just gravel covered downsloping slabs.
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post #12 of (permalink) Old 07-23-2015, 12:21 AM Thread Starter
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There is definitely no snow in the aussie right now. Just gravel covered downsloping slabs.

so is scaling/hiking/climbing it right now doable without climbing gear? I'm just making a list of what I need essentially. Is the aussie slope stabilized or is all of the rock loose? And if not the aussie col, is there another route up?


*edit- to clarify, regarding snow, there is no snow anywhere on joffre? That's so strange, since garibaldi which is a lower elevation still has a fair amount. But obviously elevation isnt everything i suppose. And on that note, it makes me sad to know that maybe in a decade, possibly 2, those glaciers will be gone permanently.

Last edited by Num3n; 07-23-2015 at 12:34 AM.
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post #13 of (permalink) Old 07-23-2015, 11:56 AM
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this was 2 weeks ago, it's sure to be much more melted out now. Proximity to the coast has a lot of impact on snowfall (or other major water source), just as elevation does.

There is snow in this area, but melting quickly, which makes some routes safer than others.

edit: this photo was taken july 5th.
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Last edited by trail_blazer3; 07-23-2015 at 12:06 PM.
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