Does anybody know anybody who did an epic bushwhack to the summit of Waddington? - ClubTread Community

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post #1 of (permalink) Old 03-01-2015, 06:51 PM Thread Starter
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Default Does anybody know anybody who did an epic bushwhack to the summit of Waddington?

Like without air support at all. When you look at Google Earth, it seems the head of Bute or Kingcomb Inlets would be your best bet. I feel actually kinda funny asking this question here, I should rather post this to BCMC but wow (*big LOL'S*) I don't even know how you would go about it with all those river deltas and the the approach up the at least 100 km glaciers to even get to the mountain, but, if it's never been done, I'd be crazy enough to do it. Or dream about it. You know the old book, "A Guide to Climbing and Hiking in Southwestern British Columbia" by Bruce Fairley? I'm sure many of you have it, or I hope so. There needs to be an expansion on it. Either that or some more knowledge on the upper parts. If you look at Google Earth, there's soooooo many a better world's place "above" the reaches of what that book covers. I wish I could know the knowledge without it getting "too" much into the reaches of the regular joe shmoe. That would just wreck it. So if any of you don't know if this has been done, just as for curiosity sakes, I want to find out. And if you don't know, I'll ask the BCMC site (if they have one) or find out some other way. There's always a better mountain to climb in the upper reaches where that book doesn't cover. It doesn't have to be "Waddington"
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post #2 of (permalink) Old 03-01-2015, 07:04 PM
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A lot of parties did it that way back in the day before air travel to that region was possible. Check out some of the early trip reports by Don and Phyllis Munday or some old BCMC journals which are available at a few public libraries (the central library downtown has all of them). I know that a VOC party did some kind of approach into the area a few years ago as well. If you're interested in foot travel into some of the more remote areas of BC, John Clarke did many a gnarly approach into the Coast Mountains and fortunately published many of his trip reports in various mountaineering journals.

Definitely something that I've pondered, but it would surely get pretty heinous at times.
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post #3 of (permalink) Old 03-01-2015, 07:04 PM
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Yes, lots of people have bushwhacked in and out of there. How do you think the first exploration and ascents were done?

If going in via the Franklin, be prepared for really scary creek crossings or really really scary moraine crawls, or go up the Klinaklini until able to climb onto the shoulder of Lomoll and into the Confederation Gl system.

If going in by the Homathko, some of the bridges have apparently (as of 2014) now been pulled. If so, good luck crossing some of the side creeks.

Don Serl's Waddington guide has all the info you need. Buy it.

Glenn Woodsworth
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post #4 of (permalink) Old 03-01-2015, 07:22 PM Thread Starter
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jaypeedee, this John Clarke guy, I've heard of him. He's like the best on our mountains ain't he? The mountaineering journals your speaking that he published, is there a way to find it online? If not, I would gladly go to the downtown library and borrow the copy and just immerse myself ) What's it called? I'm only interested in mountain ranges anything and everything south of Bella Coola. Call it MountainArt's "Coastal Ranges" if you will. I'm sorta attached...

Or something online. Even something remotely helpful online would be helpful I don't go to Van very often. I live in Maple Ridge. Course for something like this I would go there when I get the chance......is there anything online that you think would be helpful in addition? Thanks jaypeedee
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post #5 of (permalink) Old 03-01-2015, 07:25 PM Thread Starter
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tricouni, I don't intend to climb Waddington itself but yeah good point......about the "how were the first ascents done" bit..........thanks I guess for the info?
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post #6 of (permalink) Old 03-01-2015, 08:23 PM
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I think Fabische kayaked over from Vancouver Island before ascending Waddington by foot from sea level. I'd like to do that.
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post #7 of (permalink) Old 03-01-2015, 09:10 PM
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The Canadian Alpine Journals are in the downtown library. You might also check out the book by Lisa Baile, "John Clarke". It'll be in the library, too.


And look at John Baldwin's "Exploring the Coast Mountains on Skis", the 2009 edition. There's lots of good info in there, even if you aren't skiing.


Glenn
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post #8 of (permalink) Old 03-01-2015, 10:10 PM
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You could maybe contact the BCMC and see if they're able to send you something, not too sure though I usually just head to the library.

I'd highly recommend getting a membership to Bivouac.com, it's a fantastic resource for information on remote parts of B.C and mountaineering/ski touring. The reason that it's so hard to find information on the regions you're talking about is that not that many people venture in there and those who do are often on ski trips. I haven't been there myself but I've heard that the bush is almost impenetrable, the terrain is brutally steep and there is not much room for error. Some of our more experienced members should be able to give you more detailed information.
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post #9 of (permalink) Old 03-02-2015, 12:21 AM
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post #10 of (permalink) Old 03-02-2015, 05:13 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks everyone
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post #11 of (permalink) Old 03-02-2015, 11:35 AM
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Margaret Brown and friends sailed up Bute Inlet and climbed it that way.

The NW peak is often done on spring ski tours from the Chilcotin to tidewater or vice versa. See Baldwin guide.

I think you must have meant Klinaklini instead of Kingcome by the way. Kingcome Inlet gets you nowhere near Wadd.
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post #12 of (permalink) Old 03-02-2015, 07:33 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jaypeedee View Post
A lot of parties did it that way back in the day before air travel to that region was possible. Check out some of the early trip reports by Don and Phyllis Munday or some old BCMC journals which are available at a few public libraries (the central library downtown has all of them). I know that a VOC party did some kind of approach into the area a few years ago as well. If you're interested in foot travel into some of the more remote areas of BC, John Clarke did many a gnarly approach into the Coast Mountains and fortunately published many of his trip reports in various mountaineering journals.

Definitely something that I've pondered, but it would surely get pretty heinous at times.
http://www.ubc-voc.com/wiki/Archive:..._Traverse_2008

I think this was the trip there is a trip report on Bivouac
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post #13 of (permalink) Old 03-07-2015, 12:55 AM
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