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post #2 of (permalink) Old 09-12-2013, 08:42 AM Thread Starter
EAK
High on the Mountain Top
 
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Abbotsford, BC, Canada.
Interest: climbing, hiking, birding, art, writing, reading, volunteering in corrections
Posts: 1,222
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The night was cool and a heavy dew covered my bag in the morn. I left my tent fly at home to save weight. Today my way would take me up to the Spikard-Custer col, a place with rocks piled high. This area is all about rock hopping, by the end of the day I got quite proficient at moving quickly. After the col a descent down to Silver L and a traverse half way along its left side brought me to a steep ascent. I worked my way up heather slopes to a band of rotten cliffs that must be breached to reach a small snow field under Mt Rahm. In scrambler terms this was a bit of difficult scrambling, but a relief that it would go.
I wanted to reach the saddle on the left side of the peak
Two kinds of blue!
This pic shows the snowfield I worked up towards. The summit above that is Rahm and I was tempted for a moment. Even though I was probably within 120M verticle from the peak, I decided to see if I had energy on the way back. I worked my way to the right edge of the snowfield and up the ridge for a ways. Then traversed the steep loose slope right, to hit the ridge between Rahm and McNaught
Here I was higher then my goal and would have to work my way along the descending ridge towards the lowest gap in front of McNaught. The way included some rocky pinnacles interspersed with loose scree where I had to work my way around them. At some point I doubted my ability, my strength and the time it was taking.

Looking back along the ridge with My Rahm and the intervening ridge.
Still more descending and then a route looked possible on the left skyline. A way might be found on the right side by following the loose scree, but the steep ridge might not go. So I reached the base and found a steep shallow gulley and climbed up the exposed ridge to a rappel sling. Then a nice, more solid(less loose) finish and I was on top!

Silver L and Devils Tongue
Ag Peak(Peak 8824') with Mt Spikard on its right.
From the rappel sling I'd have to down climb a very exposed ridge. It was pretty steep and I triple checked holds. Obviously It went of OK!
I was tired but happy which made the long slog back to the col beyond Silver Lake attainable. The summit of Rahm was not in my body today, but I'd climbed it years ago from Maselpanik, otherwise I would have searched deeper!
I made the long descent to my tent at Ouzel L on tired knees. Not another soul here just the dippers and me.
The next day I descended the route back to the car in 5 hours. The waterfall was special again!
my wife asked me if the colour was really like that...its the best my little p and s will do!
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