Mt. Baker June 4 2004 - Page 2 - ClubTread Community

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post #16 of (permalink) Old 06-06-2004, 12:34 PM
Summit Master
 
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Very nice Anton and Eugene!!

Im envious!

this area is definitley one Im going back to again this year, I really had a wonderful time there just a couple months back.
Midweek, definitely, the weekends are far too busy around there!

Fabulous photos, thankyou for sharing!! [8D]
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post #17 of (permalink) Old 06-06-2004, 12:48 PM
 
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Wow now I know we Trigger keeps encouraging me to get out and hike/camp in the snow. Get report and pics[^]
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post #18 of (permalink) Old 06-06-2004, 11:01 PM
 
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Well done.

Certainly a crowded mountain.

I have not been on Baker for 24 years. In the good old days we would never have crossed the snow covered glacier without being roped up. The cracks are there only hidden. A well trod path so that likely boosts confidence. I take it from the photos that unroped crossings are frequent now.
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post #19 of (permalink) Old 06-07-2004, 08:07 AM
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Sure, familiarity breeds comtempt, but maybe it is reasonable to assume snow bridges are OK if 40 other people have tromped over them and no significant changes in the snowpack have occurred. Standing under hanging seracs however:

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post #20 of (permalink) Old 06-07-2004, 08:44 AM
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Hey, good stuff Anton and Eugene! Very good pictures! Quick question, did you rope up? I see one of you wearing a harness, but don't see any ropes. Just curious.

Sandy, I don't think those are seracs, but debris from an avalanche/cornice break just below Colfax. In the spring, that debris typically crosses the standard Coleman-Deming route.

Spidergirl, are you doing the BCMC trip next weekend up Baker? We took a mountaineering course at the same time as Will a few years back. Great guy!

Cheers,

PB


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post #21 of (permalink) Old 06-07-2004, 09:00 AM
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Sandy, standing under seracs is unavoidable until you get over the Roman Headwall.

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post #22 of (permalink) Old 06-07-2004, 09:26 AM
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This pic may help to illustrate the answers.

The big blocks of snow is avalanche debris, on the right you can see where they came from.

We did rope up before approaching crevasses on the way up but not during the descent, which isn't 100% right given the snow conditions and should have been another way around.
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post #23 of (permalink) Old 06-07-2004, 09:36 AM
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Good point, Anton, ropes are the way to go, especially on the way down. Hey, speaking of crevasses and the old days, in one of Fred Beckey's Cascade guidebooks he describes how they used to have an annual race to the top of the mountain and back every year, like a marathon in the early part of the last century. It was stopped shortly after one runner had to be rescued from a crevasse. When they found him, he was in shorts and a t-shirt, running on the spot on a ledge to keep warm.
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post #24 of (permalink) Old 06-07-2004, 12:21 PM
 
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Quote:
quote:Originally posted by Peak Bagger

Spidergirl, are you doing the BCMC trip next weekend up Baker? We took a mountaineering course at the same time as Will a few years back. Great guy!
Yes I am... Totally pumped too. It will be my first time above 8000ft.

How did the Eaton Peak trip go on Saturday? I did that one last year and it was beautiful.

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post #25 of (permalink) Old 06-07-2004, 12:36 PM
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SG, I was on Irek's Eaton Peak trip with you last year. On Saturday, we did the North Peak, otherwise known as Grant Peak (proposed by Beckey) or Crescent Peak (Fairley). Did you manage to get out to that one as well? Nicely done!

Eaton Peak North turned out much better than anticipated. The routefinding made it interesting. We found a nice snow gully which we used to avoid all of the bluffs and bush for the last 2,000 vertical feet to the peak. No rain, but a little graupel on the summit. We had reasonable views all things considered. It was an 8 1/2 hour trip. Still feeling it today!
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post #26 of (permalink) Old 06-07-2004, 01:12 PM
 
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Ok who are you mystery man? I don't remember anyone called Peak Bagger on that trip



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post #27 of (permalink) Old 06-07-2004, 01:30 PM
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SG, I sent you an email as well. Did you not receive it?
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post #28 of (permalink) Old 06-07-2004, 01:44 PM
 
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Quote:
quote:Originally posted by Peak Bagger

SG, I sent you an email as well. Did you not receive it?
Oh its YOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOU! lol

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post #29 of (permalink) Old 06-07-2004, 01:50 PM
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Great trip, Anton and Eugene! Wish I was there...
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post #30 of (permalink) Old 06-07-2004, 08:08 PM
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Quote:
quote:Originally posted by Anton

This pic may help to illustrate the answers.

The big blocks of snow is avalanche debris, on the right you can see where they came from.


They are indeed great pictures, what a spectacular place. Thanks for reposting this one. I may have the terminology wrong, but I've always called those big blocks of snow/ice hanging over a glaciated cliff, such as the one in the picture, seracs. In fact, I would call the terrain behind you a small icefall and call those blocks seracs as well. My understanding is that as the glacier moves forward over the cliff it breaks into towers of ice - seracs - that fall off at unpredictable times. But, hey, I've been wrong more times than I care to count!
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