Forbidden peak - west ridge/east ledge traverse - ClubTread Community

User Tag List

 
LinkBack Thread Tools
post #1 of (permalink) Old 07-12-2009, 12:52 PM Thread Starter
High on the Mountain Top
 
Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: Kimberley
Posts: 1,177
Default Forbidden peak - west ridge/east ledge traverse

after the comfortably numb trail race on June 28 with Sharon at Whistler. I headed down to Washington state to do one of the fifty classic climbs of North America. Forbidden Peak is in the North Cascades and a great adventure that goes with a bit of glacier, a bit of route finding (trail), a bit of steep snow and then a great rocky ridge. It is classified as Grade III 5.6.
The first day we hiked up to Boston Basin, camped in the snow so we had a good head start on the route and played with the million friendly marmots. Next day was pretty cold so we waited for it to warm up and then started the route at a very mountaineers time of 10:30 am. guess we didn't have to camp in the snow after all. Route went quickly with simulclimbing mostly. Just the crux at the top and the peaks did we do a real belay. Then 5 raps down, find the ledges and shinny up the gully to the notch and down the snowslopes and back home to the tent. We packed up and moved the tent lower down so we were out of marmot range and in a bit warmer climes. A party of 3 waited for us to pack up and then took our spot.
Great trip and can't wait to do more cascades climbs.

the last 6 photos were taken by my climbing partner Dave.
telkwa is offline  
Quote
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #2 of (permalink) Old 07-12-2009, 01:56 PM
EAK
High on the Mountain Top
 
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Abbotsford, BC, Canada.
Interest: climbing, hiking, birding, art, writing, reading, volunteering in corrections
Posts: 1,222
Default

Thanks for posting. Great Mountain, great route. Was it crowded? How was the couloir to the W Ridge?
EAK is offline  
post #3 of (permalink) Old 07-12-2009, 06:56 PM
Off the Beaten Path
 
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Abbotsford, BC, Canada.
Posts: 782
Default

Great climb! I get vertigo just looking at the last photograph you posted - a truly magnificent shot ... good enough in my opinion to make it into an outdoor magazine (or CT calendar?) [^]
greyowl is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #4 of (permalink) Old 07-12-2009, 07:38 PM
Summit Master
 
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: , , Canada.
Interest: Hiking, hunting, fishing, and many others.
Posts: 3,951
Default

Wow another fantastic report from Telkwa.
Great climbing shots and reports.
Way to go Telkwa. Excellent! [8D]
Wildman is offline  
post #5 of (permalink) Old 07-12-2009, 10:01 PM Thread Starter
High on the Mountain Top
 
Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: Kimberley
Posts: 1,177
Default

thanks, it was a really fun jaunt in a place that I had never been before

The coulouir was in great shape with buckets for steps all ready in place. Easy to gain the wall and climb on up.

Nope not crowded. There was one guided group of 4 ahead of us but they were already on their way down when we passed them. but that being said - it would have been an incredibly busy place the following day. But who knows where everyone is actually going, there are so many choices and so many mountains to pick from. There were several big guided groups going up to the basin but they may have been going somewhere else.
telkwa is offline  
post #6 of (permalink) Old 07-12-2009, 10:14 PM
Off the Beaten Path
 
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: north vancouver, british columbia, Canada.
Interest: ice hockey,ski mountaineering,mountain biking ,rock climbing,trail running,skateboarding
Posts: 628
Default

Great climb!

And good report!

I was in this area on a ski mountaineering traverse a few months ago!Good to see what it looks like in the summer!

Way to get the weather window!
Mtraslin is offline  
post #7 of (permalink) Old 07-13-2009, 09:44 AM
High on the Mountain Top
 
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Salt Lake City, UT, USA.
Interest: Seriously active hiker/ mountaineer/ canyoneer
Posts: 2,269
Default

Cool trip, Kathie! I was going to ask if you encountered any seedy-looking Coloradans while in the area, but they wouldn't have been in the guided groups you mentioned. A trip I'd like to do, at some point in the future.
Too Many Canyons is offline  
post #8 of (permalink) Old 07-13-2009, 10:17 AM
Dru
Super Moderator
 
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Climbing, a mountain, Canada.
Interest: climbing and spraying
Posts: 16,175
Default

It's one of the 50 Classics for good reason. Good thing it wasn't one of the 50 Crowded the day you did it.
Dru is offline  
post #9 of (permalink) Old 07-13-2009, 10:18 AM
Summit Master
 
Spunky's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Mission, BC, Canada.
Interest: TO GET OUTSIDE! Hiking, backpacking, canoeing, bushwacking, scrambling
Posts: 4,934
Default

Yeah! A T/R from Telkwa [^]! I miss your T/R's and seeing what you've been up to

Nice climb as usual [8D]
Spunky is offline  
Reply

Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page



Posting Rules  
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On

 
For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome
 

Search Engine Optimization by vBSEO 3.6.1