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post #1 of (permalink) Old 08-24-2008, 03:15 PM Thread Starter
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Default Mt Baker - North Ridge

Me and a few guys from cc.com headed out to climb the North Ridge of Baker on Friday Evening. We met up at the trailhead a 10:00 PM and crashed in the parking lot until 4:00 AM.
I had heard many people talk about starting between 12:30 AM and 2:00 AM so I was a bit concerned about our late start shortly after 4:00. The trail was nice and easy to follow by headlamp and we ended up at the toe of the glacier after a couple of hours of hiking. We followed an easy boot path to a large shoulder on the glacier and started traversing towards the North Ridge.
The direct, right-hand start looked very threatened by rockfall so we opted for the longer left-hand route around the toe of the ridge. We split into two rope teams and my rope-partner Mike led accross a shrund and up some steep ice slopes. I followed the pitch and left the screws in place for Matt to clip on his way up. When I arrived at the belay I discovered I had two screws to lead the next ice pitch. I ran out the next pitch to the top of the ice cliff and once everybody was on the easier angled section of ridge we began the trudge to the crux ice cliff.
As we neared the ice cliff the slope steepened and made for some nice climbing. We set up a belay at the base of the crux step and Matt led directly up the ice cliff. The ice was very nice and we got nice sticks with nearly every swing. The slope eased off again and we climbed up towards the summit following a boot path heading slightly right of the large seracs guarding the summit. There were a couple nice steep ice steps that we climbed to gain the summit plateau but as me and Mike reached the summit a white-out came down on the summit and the wind started howling. Mike was getting too cold in the wind and basically untied and started down the coleman-deming route to get out of the wind. I waited at the top of the final ice step for Matt and Braydon to catch up and the three of us roped up on the summit and headed down the standard route in the white out and fading light. Once we descended out of the summit whiteout we donned our headlamps and slogged all the way down the coleman glacier. We followed the obvious boot path down to the point where the trail meets the glacier, packed up, and then took a quick break (I actually slept for a few minutes) and then hiked out the trail in the dark. We eventually reached the cars at 2:00 AM, 22 hours after we started. Having four climbers slowed us down a bit in the technical bits and we took a few breaks on the way down but our time seemed a little slow compared to some other TR's I've read (average 19-20 hours) Overall it was a great trip, good partners, great route and decent weather(minus the summit white-out). This was also a neat climb for me because it was my first volcano, 3000m peak, and alpine ice route!










Start of the Route


Me following


Me leading


Matt on the ridge


Crux ice cliff


Matt leading the crux


Braydon following the crux


Climbing high on the route
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post #2 of (permalink) Old 08-24-2008, 03:23 PM
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Got pics?

You know what's awesome about your trips? You are 15 years old. Keep it up man, if you play your cards right you have a nice long, pawn free life of living to look forward to.

By the way, nice trolling attempts on rc.com lol.
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post #3 of (permalink) Old 08-24-2008, 04:19 PM Thread Starter
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I posted the pics Mike sent me...
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post #4 of (permalink) Old 08-24-2008, 04:24 PM
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Nice report and wicked pics! Keep it up and you may become the gretzky of mountain climbing!





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post #5 of (permalink) Old 08-24-2008, 04:35 PM
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Way to go Marc! I was just about to send you a mail coz I haven't seen a TR from you recently. Keep up the good work!
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post #6 of (permalink) Old 08-24-2008, 04:57 PM
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Isn't that a good climb! Well done. Although the crux can change quite a bit from month to month, it appears that there is more exposed rock in the crux area. Perhaps others will be able say more about that.
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post #7 of (permalink) Old 08-24-2008, 05:04 PM
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very cool to see pics from a more technical route.

NICE
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post #8 of (permalink) Old 08-24-2008, 05:51 PM
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Great trip report!
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post #9 of (permalink) Old 08-24-2008, 06:50 PM
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[8D]
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post #10 of (permalink) Old 08-26-2008, 05:14 PM
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Way Cool! Dangerous, amazing, trek! I really like the pictures, a lot.
Keep taking us to the top O' the world! thanks! [8D]
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post #11 of (permalink) Old 08-26-2008, 06:07 PM
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You never said anything in the other post about these pictures..am i looking at it weird or are you travelling parallel to crevasses ?

Good on ya for climbing it when its supposed to be climbed!!
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post #12 of (permalink) Old 08-26-2008, 07:00 PM Thread Starter
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To travel perpendicular to the crevasses would mean walking away from the route in this scenario.....
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post #13 of (permalink) Old 08-27-2008, 06:51 AM
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Impressive trip and pictures marc.

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post #14 of (permalink) Old 08-27-2008, 11:53 AM
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Quote:
quote:To travel perpendicular to the crevasses would mean walking away from the route in this scenario.....
You should be in echelon formation to have the team perpendicular to the crevasses and still move in the correct direction.

Anyways I tend to be anal about my glacier travel, I have fallen in a few slots on glaciers with no crevasses.

Cheers
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post #15 of (permalink) Old 08-27-2008, 04:06 PM
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Right on, cool trip, how many ice screws and how many pickets
do you need for this climb.
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