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post #16 of (permalink) Old 08-18-2008, 12:08 AM Thread Starter
High on the Mountain Top
 
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Yes Jeff, you are right. Not letting the "comfort of rope" get you beyond your head. I had great leaders to guide me. The unhappiness lasted all but 15min. It was a fantastic learning experience. Matt's book tells it like it is. So I was expecting no less. I thought I was going to be much more comfortable, as my scrambling skills are really good...but sometimes these things happen. And next time I do it, I will be wondering what my problem was. Tomyhoi was a good starting point for me. Now I know what to expect when I do Sky Pilot or Alpha. And as Rad said to me. I climbed well..and was confident in my holds and footing, but it was the exposure that made me scared...so I will work on my exposure by going climbing more often..thankfully I have friends who are willing to share their experiences and skills with me...And as someone else put it, "fear is in your mind.." Having confidence and staying calm works much better..I do believe the more fear one has, the more they can make a bad move and get injured. Everyone's experience on that same section was completely different.
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post #17 of (permalink) Old 08-18-2008, 01:06 AM
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Nicely done! This destination was highly recommended to me by an avid explorer (if you know the "Beck" trail, then you know the name). I've been looking forward to doing this one for quite some time.
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post #18 of (permalink) Old 08-18-2008, 07:24 AM
 
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The "comfort of the rope" is entirely another thing. Accidents happen, take a length of rope with you.

Your organizer may be the guru of mountain motivation, and the epitome of calm, friendly energy. He is also negligent to take a group of novices into "vertical terrain" without the bare essentials of mountain travel.
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post #19 of (permalink) Old 08-18-2008, 07:56 AM
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Quote:
quote:Originally posted by Bogen

A group took you on a difficult scramble, and not one person had a length of rope....

Sounds like you did great. Your friends I am not so impressed with.
Most of the people will do this without a rope just fine. I knew almost all the people in the group, and asked about trips and abilities of people I didn't to make sure everyone will be comfortable with this kind of a trip. Oriana warned me that she has a problem with exposure, and I assured her we will talk her through on the way down. If you're facing in downclimbing, it might be difficult to see your next footstep, but if somebody tells you where to step, it makes a difficult scramble much easier. I have done it before on trips, and was confident that it woouldn't be a problem for her. Having another person there for support works wonders.

Oriana has great climbing and scrambling skills, she only had a problem on few sections with exposure. Those were not even the hardest sections. On the crux part, I didn't have to tell her where to put her feet, she did it with no problems. I realized that it would have been better for her if she downclimbed the more exposed part facing in since she wouldn't be able to stare into the void bellow. I did it facing out, and she followed my example. But different things work for different people. I'm glad she managed to downclimb it without a rope, it will give her confidence for future trips.
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post #20 of (permalink) Old 08-18-2008, 07:59 AM
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Quote:
quote:Originally posted by Bogen

The "comfort of the rope" is entirely another thing. Accidents happen, take a length of rope with you.

Your organizer may be the guru of mountain motivation, and the epitome of calm, friendly energy. He is also negligent to take a group of novices into "vertical terrain" without the bare essentials of mountain travel.
As I just explained in my post above, those people were not novices. I don't consider rope is a bare essential for this trip. I did this trip before, and was confident that Oriana will do fine without a rope, and she did.
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post #21 of (permalink) Old 08-18-2008, 08:11 AM
 
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I am not saying that Oriana should have been roped. I don't mean to diminish Oriana's significant achievement - she found a way to overcome a deep-seated, innate fear with the help and encouragement of good people. This is a tremendous accomplishment.

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post #22 of (permalink) Old 08-18-2008, 08:24 AM Thread Starter
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Ok..enough of any sort of criticism towards my group and leaders. This is NOT why I posted my experience. I am responsible for myself and I take full responsibility for my fear. I have ALOT of mountain experience, I am definitely NOT a novice. I have a fear of heights..I do in regular life as well..not just in the mtns.This is something I am working on..and I had a great team to lead me down the most difficult part.

Please let us not discuss this point any longer. My leader is full experienced and an excellent teacher. Probably one of the most careful and cautious people I know while on the mountain.

Thanks
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post #23 of (permalink) Old 08-18-2008, 08:27 AM
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Quote:
quote:Originally posted by Jeffster


I am glad however you reported your experience, because I think a lot of people have this idea of "oh it's just a scramble" when they set off to do a trip. The term does not take in to consideration the steepness, exposure or consecuences of a fall let alone the stability of what you are climbing as in the case of the Black Tusk or Helm peak. Just refers to the technical difficulty.

What a coincident comparing Black Tusk and Tomyhoi. I've done these two peaks this weekend. Those rocks at Black Tusk seemed someone just glued them together, they're nasty.

Tomyhoi 08-16-08: http://www.flickr.com/photos/2685708...7606778036975/

Black Tusk 08-17-08: http://www.flickr.com/photos/2685708...7606808796607/

Oriana, next time i'll bring you red wine to calm you down[].
Radmila, Thank you for leading this trip, and also for the watermelon. I was surprise you carried that watermelon to the top.



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post #24 of (permalink) Old 08-18-2008, 08:31 AM
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Tomyhoi rules.
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post #25 of (permalink) Old 08-18-2008, 08:38 AM
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Quote:
quote:Originally posted by culater

What are these guys pointing at?


I'm guessing a mother and cub bears?
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post #26 of (permalink) Old 08-18-2008, 09:58 AM
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Quote:
quote:Originally posted by oriana




Please let us not discuss this point any longer. My leader is full experienced and an excellent teacher. Probably one of the most careful and cautious people I know while on the mountain.

Thanks
I know Oriana has asked that this discussion end. However I think it is worth mentioning that this subject is touched upon in the 'Leadership' and 'Safety' sections of Freedom of The Hills.
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post #27 of (permalink) Old 08-18-2008, 11:26 AM
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Quote:
quote:Originally posted by darren

Tomyhoi rules.
Tomyhoi with watermelon rules !

Thanks Oriana for your honest personal account of the trip. Radmilla has great leadership skills and she can carry up a watermelon [8D]
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post #28 of (permalink) Old 08-18-2008, 11:28 AM
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Nice going Oriana . You had a great group to help you out when it got stressful for you [^]
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post #29 of (permalink) Old 08-18-2008, 12:32 PM
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Quote:
quote:Originally posted by bcroadtrip
Radmila, Thank you for leading this trip, and also for the watermelon. I was surprise you carried that watermelon to the top.
It was very nice to meet you Dean.

Quote:
quote:Originally posted by Coastal Climber


Tomyhoi with watermelon rules !
I stole the idea from you . I usually like to share some treat with people. It was too hot for chocolate, watermelon seemed to be the best choice. I remember I would have killed for a watermelon last year on Slesse, same day you did North Twin Sister, and carried up a watermelon.
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post #30 of (permalink) Old 08-18-2008, 02:01 PM
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Radmilla is great if you need things carried up to high places, once it was a whole set of encyclopedias. [:0] Pretty soon your groups are going to be as big as some of Gerrys after that melon pic circulates a little more.
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