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-   -   A Taste of Heaven... on the Devils Tongue (https://forums.clubtread.com/37-washington-state/17135-taste-heaven-devils-tongue.html)

Just B 08-15-2006 02:00 AM

A Taste of Heaven... on the Devils Tongue
 
I would have to write a short novel on the the full extent of what I experienced on this trip, and in fact, one day I just might. In the mean time, this will be a shortened version of the story with lots of pictures and short blurbs. After all, doesn't a picture say a thousand words? [:p]

We spent a total of three days in this spectacular area in a remote part of the Washington Cascades. The Devils Tongue is the easternmost of summits in the high and rugged Spickard Group. The mountain has seen relatively few visits compared to more prominent and attractive neighbours such as Spickard and Redoubt, however this particular peak was right up our alley... beautifully obscure. Not to mention a great challenge in many aspects.

I went with two friends from the Banff/Canmore area, one of which, Neil, has been a long time friend of mine and a mountain companion since I was a child. The other, Bojan, was in B.C./Alberta on a climbing holiday from school in Ottawa and this was his first alpine trip in the Coastals of B.C./Wash. Needless to say, he was impressed with his experience as we all were.

Here are some photos of some of the things we saw and experienced along the way. Any questions please feel free to ask.

Galene Lakes on the way up. https://www.clubtread.com/forumPix/94000/94001.jpg https://www.clubtread.com/forumPix/94000/94002.jpg

The meadows beyond the lakes. https://www.clubtread.com/forumPix/94000/94003.jpg https://www.clubtread.com/forumPix/94000/94004.jpg

The ridges beyond the meadows. https://www.clubtread.com/forumPix/94000/94006.jpg https://www.clubtread.com/forumPix/94000/94008.jpg

We camped our first night on a high point along the long, roller coaster ridge leading from the east toward our looming summit. There was a lot of elevation loss and gain, routefinding, and scrambling between the lakes and where we camped. Not to mention several kilometers. Three large distinct forest fires were burning in the distance in Washington State forests and made for some cool hazy colors.

Sunset from camp looking north beyond the Lucky Four. https://www.clubtread.com/forumPix/94000/94009.jpg https://www.clubtread.com/forumPix/94000/94010.jpg

Some more crazy sunset pics. https://www.clubtread.com/forumPix/94000/94028.jpg https://www.clubtread.com/forumPix/94000/94011.jpg https://www.clubtread.com/forumPix/94000/94012.jpg

And of course along with most nice sunsets, comes a nice sunrise...

Sunrise beyond the Hozomeens. https://www.clubtread.com/forumPix/94000/94029.jpg https://www.clubtread.com/forumPix/94000/94030.jpg

The next day was even clearer and nicer than the previous and we set out for the summit of our objective. There was a large basin to descend into from where we camped with massive sweeping boulderfields leading toward the base of a 400m plus summit tower to scramble up The rock was granite and variable as we climbed. Some aspects were covered in thick black lichen, some were loose and sketchy, and some were fantastically clean. All of it was quite airy and exposed although not technical enough to justify climbing gear. Although we were packed for three days, we kept things light and were able to climb comfortably with the intent of sleeping on the summit.

Some shots of the scrambling and such. https://www.clubtread.com/forumPix/94000/94014.jpg https://www.clubtread.com/forumPix/94000/94015.jpg https://www.clubtread.com/forumPix/94000/94016.jpg https://www.clubtread.com/forumPix/94000/94018.jpg https://www.clubtread.com/forumPix/94000/94053.jpg https://www.clubtread.com/forumPix/94000/94019.jpg https://www.clubtread.com/forumPix/94000/94020.jpg https://www.clubtread.com/forumPix/94000/94021.jpg https://www.clubtread.com/forumPix/94000/94022.jpg https://www.clubtread.com/forumPix/94000/94023.jpg https://www.clubtread.com/forumPix/94000/94024.jpg

Some views along the way. https://www.clubtread.com/forumPix/94000/94025.jpg https://www.clubtread.com/forumPix/94000/94026.jpg https://www.clubtread.com/forumPix/94000/94031.jpg

Summit views:

Jack Mountain https://www.clubtread.com/forumPix/94000/94033.jpg
McNaught Peak https://www.clubtread.com/forumPix/94000/94034.jpg
Devils Toothpick https://www.clubtread.com/forumPix/94000/94035.jpg
The L.M.C. (Lazy Mountaineers Club) https://www.clubtread.com/forumPix/94000/94032.jpg
Hangin out on the summit https://www.clubtread.com/forumPix/94000/94036.jpg
Mount Prophet https://www.clubtread.com/forumPix/94000/94037.jpg
View north past Whitworth, Silvertip, Outram, etc. https://www.clubtread.com/forumPix/94000/94038.jpg
Shadow time over Ross Lake https://www.clubtread.com/forumPix/94000/94039.jpg
The Hozomeens https://www.clubtread.com/forumPix/94000/94040.jpg
The Pickets https://www.clubtread.com/forumPix/94000/94041.jpg
Shadow of the Devil himself https://www.clubtread.com/forumPix/94000/94042.jpg

Lots of time spent relaxing, taking photos and enjoying our amazing surroundings from the summit. The peak had just enough room for the three of us to stretch out and dropped dramatically from all sides.

A few more shots of our surroundings:

Looking down at a dwindling glacier https://www.clubtread.com/forumPix/94000/94043.jpg
Beyond Ross Lake https://www.clubtread.com/forumPix/94000/94044.jpg
Looking back across good ol' Canada https://www.clubtread.com/forumPix/94000/94046.jpg
Getting beyond familiar turf https://www.clubtread.com/forumPix/94000/94045.jpg
Waking up with ice on my sleeping bag https://www.clubtread.com/forumPix/94000/94047.jpg
Sunrise on McNaught https://www.clubtread.com/forumPix/94000/94048.jpg
More Pickets https://www.clubtread.com/forumPix/94000/94051.jpg

Day three was a huge day as we had to carefully downclimb from the peak and then undergo the huge distance of terrain and obstacles between us and the vehicle. There's so much more I would have liked to share in this story but there is only so much time in a day. Besides... gotta leave something to read in that book.

Hope you enjoyed my TR on the [}:)][:p]

Some parting shots:

The three amigos https://www.clubtread.com/forumPix/94000/94049.jpg
A place that only God could have made https://www.clubtread.com/forumPix/94000/94050.jpg

19351 08-15-2006 03:02 AM

It just doesn't get any better than that does it.:)

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Vancouver Hiking







Nis 08-15-2006 07:02 AM

Wow that place is something else, congrats on summiting an obscure peak.

shrubhugger 08-15-2006 07:31 AM

Awesome title.
The photos ...

I hope I remember to spend more time on this report when I have it.
Nice small packs.
Are you guys camels? How much water did you bring to camp?

ww2photofreak 08-15-2006 07:41 AM

Great climb to a remote corner of our little world. Great explorations and loved those photos.

Too Many Canyons 08-15-2006 08:29 AM

Beautiful trip! By far the best shots of Silver Lake that I've ever seen. You're tagging some great summits this year, JustB.

Shadee 08-15-2006 09:15 AM

Stunning photos - and another place to visit!
Thanks for the TR [^]

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[:s][:s][:s][:s][:s]

Coastal Climber 08-15-2006 09:29 AM

Absolutely stunning photo's, you sure know where all cool trips are to be found. Congratulations on another exceptional one [8D][8D][8D]

seawallrunner 08-15-2006 09:36 AM

wow - beautiful photos Just B !!! How did you access the area, from Silver-Skagit road?

We were up in the same neighborhood in the same timeframe (July 31 to August 6), but we were on the other side of Ross, walking the East Bank from the US campground to Lightning Creek, then went up Desolation. We had similar views out, but no other lakes than Ross in our viewfinders.

Fabulous photos of the Galenes and Silver and of the surrounding mountainscapes.

Spunky 08-15-2006 09:36 AM

Wicked [8D] [^] - You do the coolest trips Just B :D

Another set of amazing pics as well [8D]

Just B 08-15-2006 09:37 AM

Quote:

quote:Originally posted by shrubhugger

Awesome title.
The photos ...

I hope I remember to spend more time on this report when I have it.
Nice small packs.
Are you guys camels? How much water did you bring to camp?
It has taken me alot of trial and error to figure out getting my pack light enough to take on more aggressive, longer trips involving scrambling/climbing in comfort and still having all the neccesities for a multiday. Some sacrifices are, no stove, high calorie yet light food, no rope or climbing aids... trying not to climb free beyond my comfort level(not always the case), no tent and knowing whether or not there will be sufficient water in the area. We started out with two litres each, refilled from Galene Lakes and then from melting snow and ice patches higher up. Never carrying more than a litre or so after the start. My pack weighed only about 20 lbs which definitely contributed to the success of this trip. Originally we were going to bring climbing gear and attempt to summit the Devils Toothpick as well, but I'm glad we opted out of that at the last minute.

PiB 08-15-2006 09:38 AM

Great pictures and spirit, keep them coming!![^]

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Caminante no hay camino, se hace camino al andar.

culater 08-15-2006 10:16 AM

beautiful pictures! :)

Dru 08-15-2006 10:24 AM

Nice Justin. [8D]

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Wine stirs the spring, happiness bursts through the earth like a plant, walls crumble, and rocky cliffs, chasms close, as song is born.

Just B 08-15-2006 10:29 AM

Quote:

quote:Originally posted by seawallrunner

wow - beautiful photos Just B !!! How did you access the area, from Silver-Skagit road?

We were up in the same neighborhood in the same timeframe (July 31 to August 6), but we were on the other side of Ross, walking the East Bank from the US campground to Lightning Creek, then went up Desolation. We had similar views out, but no other lakes than Ross in our viewfinders.

Fabulous photos of the Galenes and Silver and of the surrounding mountainscapes.
Yes, we did begin from the Canadian side from the Skagit and crossed over the border at Monument 70(no border guard). I was just looking at that trail you were on last night on my map. There's some neat stuff to do back there. How was Desolation? What were the trails like?


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