Disclaimer: This is a side-story about Bob, an awesome guy we encountered on our trip to Baker, and his Guide. I don't know what I intend to accomplish with this thread, other than to document something that made me feel uncomfortable.
Link to TR: https://www.clubtread.com/sforum/topi...TOPIC_ID=63411
If you didn't read the TR, we picked up Bob near the top of the Roman wall where he was waiting while his two climbing partners pushed for the summit. Their pace was too intense for him, and being a nice guy, he offered to stay behind while they plowed on. After sitting for a few minutes however, he noticed that he just needed a small break.
We offered to take him up to the summit, and to re-unite him with his 2 climbing partners. On the way up, we learned that Bob's two companions were one of his friends and a guide. It sounded a bit unfortunate that his guide had set such an unreasonable pace for him, especially considering they had plenty of time, and only two clients.
On our way down, just before roping up, we ran into Bob's guide, who came across as a major dick. Upon reaching us, he skipped any kind of greeting and immediately started commanding Bob to put on his helmet, and telling him to "come over here". To be fair to his guide, he definitely had a right to be upset. His client had said he was going to wait at a spot, but changed things without any communication. Still, the guide shouldn't have put Bob in that situation in the first place, and handled the situation inappropriately. He practically berated this guy right in front of us, and we could do nothing but offer our condolences to Bob, and offer him a trip down on our rope if he wanted.
After they roped up, the guide said a very reluctant and sarcastic "thanks" to us, and they were off in a blaze. This guide was really upset, and was in a massive hurry to get down.
As we were going down the small pitch of rock before the big snow patch at the top of the roman wall, I saw Bob being directed to hop over the bergschund in an effort to bypass another downclimbing rope team (one of ours, I think). Bob had a small slip and was arrested by the guide, but this was upsetting.
Anyways, they hurried off at an intense pace I would have been really uncomfortable at.
One of the members of our team mentioned to me that while Bob and his guide were passing them, they heard the guide saying that they were not going to be stopping for him any more, and that the guy looked like he was going to cry.
I didn't see any more of Bob, but at the very end of the day, he ran into some of our group members waiting for the rest of us at the parking lot. He was so drained after the down-hike, as his team members didn't do any waiting for him. I hear at a couple of points, he was considering leaving his pack behind and just replacing the gear, he was so drained.
He expressed some very sincere gratitude to our group for being kind to him and taking him up to the summit. It was apparently the highlight of his trip.
He also expressed a bit of guilt, saying that it was his fault and that he shouldn't have held them back in the first place.
Anyways, we learned that this guide was operating on behalf of the American Alpine Institute, and from what I hear they have a stellar reputation.