Mt. Baker Conditions - Safely climbable? - ClubTread Community

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post #1 of (permalink) Old 07-25-2012, 08:00 PM Thread Starter
High on the Mountain Top
 
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Default Mt. Baker Conditions - Safely climbable?

I was wondering if anyone has any experience with Baker recently, or with typical conditions in early August going to the summit? With proper glacier gear and crevasse rescue gear, is it reasonably safe?

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post #2 of (permalink) Old 07-25-2012, 11:06 PM
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There's a TR on cascadeclimbers from July 17 if you want to see relatively recent conditions. Not really sure what constitutes 'reasonably safe'...
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post #3 of (permalink) Old 07-26-2012, 12:08 AM
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I did it last year end of aug. if anything it's safer later in the summer as the snow bridges have fallen / melted and all the cracks are already open that you walk around / jump over. probably nothing new to break though into.

the standard route up is pretty straight foward. (aside from the cravasses) just a long walk. I've been more worried in times on seymour then I was on baker.
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post #4 of (permalink) Old 07-26-2012, 07:16 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
quote:Originally posted by hafilax

There's a TR on cascadeclimbers from July 17 if you want to see relatively recent conditions. Not really sure what constitutes 'reasonably safe'...
Reasonably safe definition: Okay to stand under seracs and take photos

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post #5 of (permalink) Old 07-26-2012, 01:03 PM
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Best way to gain experience in order to be able to one day assess conditions yourself:
- sign up with a local mountaineering / climbing club and get out with them as much as possible, or
- hire a guide (pricey)

There's no better way of getting experience then by practicing the skills you would get out of courses, books, experienced climbers.

LOL about the serac comment
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post #6 of (permalink) Old 07-26-2012, 01:06 PM
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I just climbed it via the Easton Glacier last weekend (July 21/22). The snow conditions were good. The crevasses are still fairly well filled in. They are starting to open up. It does get quite warm and the snow layer gets very slushy so you'll want to do an early start (3am) for your summit push. The roman wall has opened up considerably over last year but it's still easy to navigate. There's a pretty good boot track to follow. The best source for information is the ranger station. I always make a call to the ranger station 2-3 days prior and then speak to them about conditions when I'm getting my permits. They are by far the best source for the most up to date conditions. Send me a private message if you need more info or want to discuss the route etc.

-Russ
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post #7 of (permalink) Old 07-26-2012, 01:31 PM
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Quote:
quote:Originally posted by rustysheep

I just climbed it via the Easton Glacier last weekend (August 21/22).
Howdyou fuel your flux capacitor?
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post #8 of (permalink) Old 07-26-2012, 09:08 PM
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Quote:
quote:Originally posted by Dru

Quote:
quote:Originally posted by rustysheep

I just climbed it via the Easton Glacier last weekend (August 21/22).
Howdyou fuel your flux capacitor?
Haha, oops. I'm thinking ahead to my Mt. Rainier trip already.
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