Other than the above-mentioned government sites for 1:20000 BC TRIIM maps, you can find the maps on Geokov.com (http://geokov.com
) along with 1:50000 topo Canada and the regular Google maps/3D Earth. It has US 1:24000 topo and DOQ images also in USA section.
First need to drill down to a subregion page and from the top of google maps choose one of the desired map types. You can download the google earth plugin when prompted to view GE in the browser window.
In terms of gridlines, you can add both lat/lon and UTM. The UTM looks much better on google earth since you can see the numbers. But on other map types have to click the center and icons to find the UTM coordinate. I guess after printing, can find some UTM coordinates and write them on map.
Printing is easy to send to printer or pdf. Or if you want image can printscreen and paste in another application. The printed maps from main page with trails are small so might have to print two/three and stitch. The map accessed from "Plan a route" page is larger and prints larger but won't have the trails. You can plot your own trail.
Other goodies are conditions (weather, road, avalanche, etc.), condition info exchange and trails/huts/icons (need to click on them for name and info).