If you could have just 1 mountaineering boots, which would it be? - ClubTread Community

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post #1 of (permalink) Old 08-19-2015, 04:25 AM Thread Starter
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Default If you could have just 1 mountaineering boots, which would it be?

I'm curious to know people's personal preferences for mountaineering boots. If money wasn't an object which boot would you choose if you could only have the 1 boot for everything (not including 6500+ meter peaks).

Plastic, double boots, leather, la sportiva, scarpa, etc.
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post #2 of (permalink) Old 08-19-2015, 10:54 AM
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If money is no option then why not have a quiver?

But I'lll say these: http://www.backcountry.com/salomon-s...ring-boot-mens
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post #3 of (permalink) Old 08-19-2015, 11:44 AM
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It'll depend on what you want to be doing.

I would agree with ecarter1 that if money is not a problem, go with a quiver. If you're not willing to let your feet suffer, there's no one boot that will do it all (to my knowledge).

Edit: In my opinion, a quiver would look like this:
- Rock shoes (and the quiver you need for bouldering vs sport vs trad vs alpine)
- Approach shoes (eg, guide tennies for moderate hiking, moderate summer alpine).
- Hiking shoes (could be anything moderate, I know several people with sportiva trangos to bridge the gap between hiking and easy mountaineering).
- Technical mountain boots (I use evo nepals by sportiva, scarpa rush if ski moutnaineering. These are both good all rounders)

From there, you can get really extreme sport mixed climbing boots. Anyways, as I mentioned, it's key to figure out what you want to be doing. Trangos (or the scarpa/salewa/etc equivalent) being a great option to start in general mountaineering.

Last edited by trail_blazer3; 08-19-2015 at 12:52 PM.
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post #4 of (permalink) Old 08-19-2015, 03:38 PM
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North face ultra series trail runners. I use them on everything from backpacking to washington volcanoes to bugaboos approaches to winter snowshoeing to mid 5th summer mountaineering. I pair with black diamond contact strap crampons. Caveat, my ankles are strong and 1 pair won't last a year, sometimes 2 pairs won't last a year. The only thing I really use boots for is ice climbing. Then it's double plastic. And I use rock shoes for rock above 5.6.
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post #5 of (permalink) Old 08-20-2015, 12:52 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ecarter1 View Post
If money is no option then why not have a quiver?

But I'lll say these: http://www.backcountry.com/salomon-s...ring-boot-mens
Do you have these? What's your review? And do you know what store in BC/Washington has them to try them on?
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post #6 of (permalink) Old 08-20-2015, 01:37 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ecarter1 View Post
If money is no option then why not have a quiver?

But I'lll say these: http://www.backcountry.com/salomon-s...ring-boot-mens

I guess I meant realistically. If you wanted 1 boot to do everything right. Obviously an olympus mons wouldnt make any sense for 4k peaks. But at the same time maybe something like the nepal evo might not make sense for 6k peaks, or multi day expeditions due to the leather getting soaked through.

From what i've read the sportiva spantik or batura seem like fairly well rounded boots. Obviously on the burlier side of things but still fairly towards the middle.
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post #7 of (permalink) Old 08-20-2015, 09:05 PM
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So I take it you're planning on taking on some 6000M peaks? Perhaps Denali? Or?

There is no one boot that does it all. A fairly big boot like a Spantik can work in some pretty cold places, but is really hot for summer climbing in the Canadian Rockies and if your approaches get long, ugh, they'd be brutes. They're also really meant to be used with crampons most of the time and don't do all that well on rock - they have a beefy full shank lots of insulation.

You seem to have a growing number of "the one piece of gear" threads. Where are you going and what are your objectives?

I have three pairs of boots for the Canadian Rockies.

I have a Hanwag with a 3/4 shank and no insulation that is great for moderate objectives in the height of summer. It can climb 45d ice without difficulty and I can walk long distances in it. Very good on rock, but not as good as the newer boots like the Trangos.

My Salomon SM Experts are a pretty beefy boot, but not bad for some marching, and they're pretty warm. Great with crampons, so-so on rock. For the glaciated peaks they're great and for ice climbing when temps are -15C or warmer they're awesome.

My Salomon Pro Thermics are a leather double boot - so they have a heavy leather outer boot with a moldable inner boot - these suckers are WARM. Awesome for -30C or colder weather. They're comparable to a Spantik - they're not very good at doing stuff other than climbing on crampons in cold weather. Far too hot for summer stuff.

Not much overlap in the three pairs of mountaineering boots I own - I wouldn't think any of them could be my only pair - they just plain work in different environments.
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post #8 of (permalink) Old 08-21-2015, 02:40 AM Thread Starter
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Really insightful post, I appreciate that.

I suppose boots are similar to jackets, or really most mountaineering gear. you cant just go ahead and wear a full down jacket in the summer. You need different gear for vastly different conditions which one experiences on mountains and in different seasons.
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post #9 of (permalink) Old 08-21-2015, 03:59 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Greenarc View Post
Do you have these? What's your review? And do you know what store in BC/Washington has them to try them on?
Yes.

I like 'em a lot. They are like a stiffer running shoe that takes a crampon well, climbs rock alright and is waterproof with a gator.

Salomon in W. Van or Whistler and most Valhalla Pures I believe.
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post #10 of (permalink) Old 08-21-2015, 04:22 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Num3n View Post
I guess I meant realistically. If you wanted 1 boot to do everything right. Obviously an olympus mons wouldnt make any sense for 4k peaks. But at the same time maybe something like the nepal evo might not make sense for 6k peaks, or multi day expeditions due to the leather getting soaked through.

From what i've read the sportiva spantik or batura seem like fairly well rounded boots. Obviously on the burlier side of things but still fairly towards the middle.
One boot won't do everything right though. And there's so much variance in personal preference.

I use Scarpa approach shoes for virtually everything alpine that doesn't involve glaciers. After that, Scarpa ski boots if I'm skiing, or Scarpa Mont Blancs for the big mountain stuff. But there's really no crossover between them, one will not work in place of another.
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post #11 of (permalink) Old 08-22-2015, 02:08 AM
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@ecarter1 awesome thanks
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post #12 of (permalink) Old 08-23-2015, 09:12 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Num3n View Post
I'm curious to know people's personal preferences for mountaineering boots. If money wasn't an object which boot would you choose if you could only have the 1 boot for everything (not including 6500+ meter peaks).

Plastic, double boots, leather, la sportiva, scarpa, etc.
IF I had a gun to my head then these: http://www.mec.ca/product/5009-329/l...FYcCaQodkHEDUA

but it's a totally unfair question. In reality I have 4 pairs
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