Rope suggestions for glacier travel & mountaineering? - ClubTread Community

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post #1 of (permalink) Old 08-11-2015, 02:58 AM Thread Starter
Scaling New Heights
 
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Default Rope suggestions for glacier travel & mountaineering?

I hear a lot of differing opinions on this topic. Basically I'm looking for a rope that will predominantly be used by 2 people on glacier travel with some very basic short (height wise) climbing and belaying. 85-90%% of the time will be used for glacier travel.

What kind of rope should I be looking for? 60m? what kind of circumference? And obviously not something that will break the bank for me.

Thanks =)
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post #2 of (permalink) Old 08-11-2015, 03:09 AM
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post #3 of (permalink) Old 08-11-2015, 03:13 AM Thread Starter
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that is a really reasonable price. At 8mm though i suspect it won't really be able to function as a belaying rope or climbing rope though no?
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post #4 of (permalink) Old 08-11-2015, 03:17 AM
Headed for the Mountains
 
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so here's what they say

2 strands have a UIAA fall rating of 12.
2 strands are rated to an impact force of 8.5kN.

it you're climbing actual rockclimbing grade pitches max 30m, then you bring two
if you rapping <15m use one, but over 30m, use two of them

scrambling, 4th class, low 5th, simul climbing, glacier: one rope for two people.
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post #5 of (permalink) Old 08-11-2015, 03:29 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by lowclimber View Post
so here's what they say

2 strands have a UIAA fall rating of 12.
2 strands are rated to an impact force of 8.5kN.

it you're climbing actual rockclimbing grade pitches max 30m, then you bring two
if you rapping <15m use one, but over 30m, use two of them

scrambling, 4th class, low 5th, simul climbing, glacier: one rope for two people.

awesome, thanks for that info.

What about say cutting the petzl salsa in two and melting the ends for 2, 30m ropes?

http://www.mec.ca/product/5035-265/p...01+51188+51233
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post #6 of (permalink) Old 08-11-2015, 04:07 AM
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i'd think you just need one 30m for what you described.

Not knowing what kind of experience you have, i would also recommend this "course" @ UBC VOC club

http://www.ubc-voc.com/wiki/Glacier_school


You can just attend the "dry school" if your schedule is full

Last edited by lowclimber; 08-11-2015 at 04:11 AM.
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post #7 of (permalink) Old 08-11-2015, 03:06 PM
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I had just purchased a new rope this year for using for mountaineering and scrambling. I had looked at the 8mm rope from MEC too as the price was good but I wanted something a but thicker so it could be multi purposed.


I got a Petzl Volta which is a 9.2mm 30m dry rope. It is rated for single, half and twin. I choose this because it is a good length for glacier travel for 3 people (something I'm just getting into after having took a course this summer), but I can also use it to lead short pitches or protect on hard scrambles, belay a second, etc. That being said if it was full on rock climb I would bring out my 60m rope.


VPO has this rope in a 30m length. https://vpo.ca/285937/petzl_volta-dr...m-x-30m-orange


MEC has the 70m version of this rope as well.
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post #8 of (permalink) Old 08-11-2015, 05:42 PM
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A 30 m rope is a bit short for glacier travel if you're in a 3 person team. If you're spaced about 10 m apart that only leaves 5 m at each end for crevasse rescue, which is nowhere near enough.
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post #9 of (permalink) Old 08-12-2015, 12:12 AM
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I use 2 of the 30M ropes quite a bit - very versatile and when not in use, they're light in your pack. But, I would rarely use one, as you need two for teams of three or four.

If you're inexperienced, three on a rope is a little dicey and two is not recommended at all unless both are very strong/competent.

Two of the 30M Rando ropes are great as you can rig up for four for glacier travel, you can lead on them (together) and 30M raps aren't terrible.

Keep in mind those 8mm ropes need small prussik cords and a belay/rap device that can handle them. I use an older Reversino - an awesome little bit of kit.

My fave rope is the 8.6mm Beal Cobra Half in 60M. Two of those is still light, but you can do SO much with a pair of them.

Last edited by johngenx; 08-12-2015 at 02:47 AM.
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post #10 of (permalink) Old 08-12-2015, 12:58 AM Thread Starter
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Really good feedback, I sincerely appreciate all of this insight, especially as you guys clearly have much more experience than myself. I find it's a slow process accumulating knowledge but i'm not rushing into anything until I know i'm ready and have all the correct gear, skills, and so forth
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post #11 of (permalink) Old 08-13-2015, 12:10 AM
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I would recommend carrying a rope longer than 30m for a two person team. I understand the desire to save weight but a longer rope will make an extraction easier by providing the man on top more options. Having practiced but thankfully never needing to effect a two man rescue situation, I definitely feel you need every advantage you can give yourself! This includes knots between climbers, prussiks or ascenders pre-rigged on the rope and plenty of extra coils with both team members. A 50m or even 60m will also be more useful in climbing and especially abseiling situations.
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post #12 of (permalink) Old 08-13-2015, 12:36 AM
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Surprised Dru hasn't weighed in on this topic, and its my chance to say "Druggle it" a term used for fun around here for a bit now,, or is it Droogle? of course no harm intended

Last edited by Aqua Terra; 08-13-2015 at 12:39 AM.
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post #13 of (permalink) Old 08-13-2015, 02:20 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Aqua Terra View Post
Surprised Dru hasn't weighed in on this topic, and its my chance to say "Druggle it" a term used for fun around here for a bit now,, or is it Droogle? of course no harm intended
do you mean google it? I've definitely been spending hours and hours googling it but I find a considerable amount of differing opinions so I figured I would just make a topic on it. I'm starting to lean towards the 50 or 60m options
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post #14 of (permalink) Old 08-14-2015, 12:33 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Num3n View Post
do you mean google it? I've definitely been spending hours and hours googling it but I find a considerable amount of differing opinions so I figured I would just make a topic on it. I'm starting to lean towards the 50 or 60m options


No, I was messing around with our mod DRU, and said Druggle it for fun,
But you had some other real replies to pay attention to, that have good suggestions, and hey google may have some other inputs worth noting.
Welcome to CT
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post #15 of (permalink) Old 08-14-2015, 02:25 AM
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My current rope "quiver:"

Two big beefy 60M non-dry 11mm ropes for top roping at the crag - they can stand all kinds of abuse and never shows any sign of wear. We often head out with families for a day on the ropes and these are awesome for that.

One 60M 10mm dry-treated rope that's good for leading, glacier travel, ice climbing and alpine climbing.

Two 60M dry treated 8.6mm half ropes - can be used on it's own as a nice glacier travel rope, together for alpine/ice leading - very versatile.

Two 30M 8mm "Rando" ropes - A great alternative to a 60M half rope as you can split the carrying duties. We often carry both for a team of three on a glacier where the climbing won't involve placing much gear or the possibility of lead falls.

If I had to only own ONE rope? Whoa, what a hard decision. I'd probably go for a 60M or 70M 10mm-ish dry treated single rope. This size of rope ain't super light like an 8mm dental-floss, but it's so versatile. You can take it rock or ice climbing (though days of top roping on it might not be the best) trudge over glaciers with four people on it easily, use it alpine climbing - it does most anything. It's cheaper than two half ropes and does more stuff than two 8mm Rando ropes. A 10mm also takes prussiks easily and won't fly through a rap device when you go past the half-way point like a <9mm will. (But that doesn't mean you don't back up your raps, just sayin...)
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