Jimmy Simpson to Iceberg Lake connector - ClubTread Community

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post #1 of (permalink) Old 08-19-2015, 01:34 AM Thread Starter
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Default Jimmy Simpson to Iceberg Lake connector

Jimmy Simpson is well known and documented scramble from Bow Falls. Iceberg Lake is fantastic hike / easy scramble in same area. Last year I visited Iceberg Lake and continued for about an hour under Mt. Thompson towards Jimmy Simpson: here is the pic of JS from my turnaround point:




This year I'd like to connect the 2: Up Jimmy Simpson, then return via Iceberg Lake. Question is where to break to upper bench from JS route below the col; it is not straightforward & there are cliffs. I could not find info online, so looking at Google Earth & others I think there are 2 possible ways:



X: Marks the spot where I've been (pic on top), so I know where to go after that
1: First option: From JS col, drop a bit and around immediate bowl NW, then loop back to upper bench. This is longer and rather roundabout, but looks like only scree
2: Second option. From JS col sideslope to tarn below upper bench. This has been done by several people that post here & no problems were reported. From this tarn, keep contouring on scree till cliffs erode and wide scree fan allows transfer to upper bench. This option is more direct, but I can not tell how much these cliffs have really eroded and how bad contouring would be

Close-up of second option:


Picture of that tarn for option 2:


Basically the idea is from snowpatch at far end of lake keep going till you can cut right and up. (Image above is borrowed from this report)



Has anyone tried this in summer conditions? How difficult was it, if so? Which option would you recommend? Any other ideas/suggestions?
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Last edited by zeljkok; 08-20-2015 at 02:03 AM.
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post #2 of (permalink) Old 08-19-2015, 02:16 AM
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Awesome scenery and a beautiful lake. We have a lake of same name near Mt. Baker.

Your photography is excellent.

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post #3 of (permalink) Old 08-19-2015, 05:38 PM
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I had looked into that as well, I think option 2 would be your best bet. I looked at it earlier this summer on ascent of JS, but didn't actually follow it onward. If you plan on JS this late in the summer, expect some scree grovelling up to the col. It is best done when there is still some snow there, but it won't stop you! Enjoy!
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post #4 of (permalink) Old 08-20-2015, 02:01 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks Phil; I am hoping someone will come up & say "I've done it. Your best bet is .....".
Anyone?
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post #5 of (permalink) Old 08-21-2015, 11:42 AM
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Here's the route that I took (yellow). The red line is a possible alternative to gain the plateau up easy scree slopes. The yellow line continues to contour on a good ledge system around the cliffs beyond line of sight. You then gain the plateau shortly before the falls, where the cliffs are easily passable and the ledge system peters out.

Your best bet for traversing from the small lake is to stay just above where the scree slope meets solid rocky slabs, as the slope is gentler here and the scree is relatively stable.
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post #6 of (permalink) Old 08-23-2015, 02:03 AM Thread Starter
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Thank you; will report how it went if I try.
That's a fantastic pic by the way; you can see whole route to Iceberg Lake too
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post #7 of (permalink) Old 09-07-2015, 03:51 AM
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There's actually a third option: traversing a slightly exposed scree bench below the summit of what I've dubbed "Mt. Jimmy Thompson" (the unnamed peak between Simpson and Thompson). You'll find the bench on the south side of the peak reasonably level with the col. I know it will work because I was a third of a way across it (coming from the west) when the inexperienced companions I was with decided they wanted to turn back and call it a day (40 minutes from the summit... in good weather >_<). Note that route is no big deal in dry conditions, but might become dangerous when snow covered.
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post #8 of (permalink) Old 11-25-2017, 04:04 PM
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great route.

Do you think it would be possible to continue north to peyto glacier and then out to peyto lake? (ie, a path that runs north in the valley between Mt Thompson and "Mt Jimmy Thompson")?
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post #9 of (permalink) Old 11-25-2017, 04:48 PM
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It's done all the time as a ski but you don't say whether summer or winter but either way you're on the glacier...........so rope up and be knowledgeable in glacier travel and crevasse rescue
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