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post #1 of (permalink) Old 08-03-2009, 05:24 PM Thread Starter
Headed for the Mountains
Join Date: May 2008
Location: Vancouver, BC, Canada.
Posts: 330
Default A real fun scrambling on Robie Reid

Mt. Robie Reid was on my list for a long time. However, the waiting list on BCMC schedule for this peak was alway long. Surprisingly this time there were only 3 people contacted leader Darlene when i called her (maybe the hot weather. ). Anyway, the final list was 5 of us:
Darlene(leader), Lionel, Sergey, Stephanie and i. Here is the story and pictures(additional pictures courtesy of Stephanie Li(sl)):

Part 1: Approaching
The plan was car camping at the Hydro gate before trail head the day before, then an early start to finish the trip and come back in 1 day.

At 7:00pm Saturday evening, 5 of us squeezed into Lionel's Delica with our gears, followed HWY 7 all the way until Dewdney Trunk Road. Following that we reached Stave lake dam and turned left on Florence Lake forest service rd(at the turn reset odometer). Keep driving about 11km on the main road we saw a sign "rocky point" on right hand side at a "Y" junction(this part is 2wd sedan drivable). Obviously our destination is not "rocky point" so we turned left on uphill road(this part of the road is a little bit rough with lots of rocks but i am still think it's 2wd drivable if you have an old sedan and don't care much about it). Before we reached the final Hydro gate there is a small junction, we made the correct choice to use the left side one, after 500m driving we saw the "famous" twin gates(waypoint on map: Hydro gate&parking). The odometer was 20km at that point from Stave lake dam. we set up our camp before the gates around 9:00pm. Attention, there is NO water source nearby so we have to bring enough water in.

Part 2: Ascending to tarns
it's was cool and nice night. we woke up at 4:15am 2nd day morning and left our camp site around 5:15am. By crossing two gates we followed the zigzag road downhill until we saw the double white/orange ribbon mark for trail head (waypoint: trailhead).

The trail was well marked and easy to follow(many thanks to the trail builder). We descended the hill and followed the east shoreline of Aloutte lake until reaching the north side of the lake. There is a junction which shows different routes to the Robie Reid or lake Cabin (waypoint: junction). Kept going north by following very steep trail, we arrived flat area which has 3 or 4 tarns surrounded at 9:00am (3hrs and 45 mins). The elevation here is 1360 meter. it also looks like a ideal bivy site.

Pic1: Darlene and Stephanie having break by tarn with Mt.Kranrod in background
Pic2: ready for leaving to head for col at 9:30am
Pic3: our ascending route up to the col:
following the flags on south-east ridge to the open area with big snow patch (waypoint: 1600m base)-> bear to the right side of snow patch, heading north on gentle slabs until see a mini-gully on the left hand side -> climb the mini-gully to a ledge then move to the right until you see a narrow steep gully (there is a repel station in the middle of gully, some class 3 climbing here)-> follow the gully all the way to the top which is a col between two false summits

Part 3: from tarns to summit
we left tarn at 9:30am then heading for the col between two false summits.
At 1600M elevation we reached a big flat snow patch (around 10:30am). Then we beared to the right to climb some gentle slabs until we see a mini-gully on the left.

Pic1: a closeup for the col (on the right side)
Pic2: Lionel is cooling himself down on the base
Pic3: Stephanie on the slabs
Pic4: Stephanie climbing mini-gully

The mini-gully leads us to a ledge, we keep moving right on the ledge until we saw a long narrow steep gully. This gully looks like a way to the col (some slings in the gully proved that).
So we climbed the gully to the top - a flat platform on the col. From there, we moved to the left side of the east false summit tower until reaching the top.

Pic1: Stephanie and Lionel on the top of east false summit with "missile tower" and glacier in the backgroud
Pic2: start descending the false summit, this time the true summit shows up behind the "missile tower"

About 11:50am we reached "missile tower". After having a short snack break, we continued to our final target.

Pic(by SL): The missile troop

After 10 minutes, we reached the bottom of the summit.

Pic(by SL): Approaching the base of summit rocks

The real fun started from here: the first part is a class 4 climbing then moved to the left exposuring rock, few class 3 steps lead us to the summit.

Pic1: Darlene decided to re-organize her pack before climbing the class 4 part, with Lionel in background
Pic2: Darlene is climbing the class4 crux
Pic3: Our route to the summit
Pic4: Darlene's final movement to the left rock
Pic5(by SL): Darlene on the exposed rock

Yahooo!!!, we are on the summit! it was 12:25pm (almost 7hrs from startpoint)

Pic1: Happy group on the summit of Roby(from left to right: Stephanie,Lionel,Darlene and me) with Darlene's beautiful bandana!
Pic2: Darlene&Lionel with Judge Howay(right) and Oppsey?(left)
Pic3: A summit carin and summit sign with Mt. Golden ears, Edge peak, Blanshard(from right to left)
Pic4: A summit "certificate", sorry you can't take it away
Pic5: Darlene and Lionel are dreaming about next plan
Pic6: The Judge Howay
Pic7: Stave lake with stonerabbit in the middle left
Pic8: the ridge we came from
Pic9: Lionel is sharing his carriots
Pic10(by SL): Darlene - the commander!
Pic11(by SL): me with my bagel(Lionel is laughing at me)

Part 4: descending
We spent our wonderful 50 minutes on the summit then started descending at 13:15pm.

Pic1: Lionel down climbing the class4 part
Pic2: lots of lakes
Pic3: Darlene presenting the west false summit rock face
Pic4: Darlene&Lionel at the mouth of gully, from there is the route we descended.
Pic5: Stephanie down climbing the gully
pic6: Lionel really enjoy his melted black chocolate
pic7: Group conversation after we safely down to the snow base (Darlene: with my new camel water pack i don't have problem for dehydration; Stephanie: really?! Lionel: Mmm,Yummy.)

We used the same route back to our car before 7:20pm (so we used 14 hrs in total), of course lots of chatting on the way down so we really didn't make much progress for coming down.

i want to say thanks to our great leader Darlene and other team memeber, we really had a "cool" day in this hot season. Also many thanks to the clubtread contributors, we got lots of useful information from previous trip reports. As my pay back, i am putting a link to my gps file here:

Hope it can be helpful.
jeffhan is offline  
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