S2S = Sea to Sky Alpha Mountain Sept 24, 2021 - ClubTread Community

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post #1 of (permalink) Old 11-25-2021, 08:02 PM Thread Starter
High on the Mountain Top
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Surrey, BC, Canada.
Posts: 1,822
Default Alpha Mountain Sept 24, 2021

This was the second day of our 2 day trip into the Tantalus Range. The previous day and report was for Pelops and Niobe. We had camped over at the spit after hiking in and doing Pelops and Niobe, the night was clear, the starts were out and we cooked dinner, played with some camera shots then went to sleep. We woke up to a nice morning except the insane amount of dew on everything. We packed up our gear and decided to have breakfast over at the dock a short hike away.
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From here we set a pretty good pace along the lake trail, heading for the russian army camp and had our 2nd break of the day. There is a short cut up into the alpine from here so we did a poll and the matt gunns' scramble route won out, it's kinda a depressing route as you head up into the end of the valley and then gain elevation and then just head right back to where the short cut was. In the Russian Army camp valley it was quite nice but after that the moraine travel and the alpine travel was just endless boulders.
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We arrived at the crux of the route and couldn't really tell where the proper route up was, it's just a big cliff face with multiple options, so we walked past where we were supposed to go up and found a line that looked okay. It started off really nice and you could chooose your own adventure, until it started to get steeper. We passed by some really old rap tat, and found a stiff class 4 gully to climb up. A couple members of the group it was pushing their limits so me and Leon brought out the rope. There was a small tree to use as an anchor but Phil preferred to use Leon as the anchor lol. They are best friends so that was their choice.
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After finding our way up the crux it was straight forward to another crux, I took a different line up than the others but it worked out fine. Things definitely had taken alot longer than we had planned but it was now a simple plod to the summit.
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We finally took our 3rd break of the day on the summit, refueling the body since it would require some mental and physical strength to get down both cruxes.
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Nico got stumped on the one crux and I was in the 4th spot so there was abit of a traffic jam. He couldn't really go anywhere from the spot he got himself into so I finally came down abit to see what was happening. I managed to point out the only line that would work so he found a way to climb up abit and get into the proper weakness. The other 2 followed shortly after. 1 hurdle down 1 to go.
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So we all agreed no way in hell we were gonna downclimb the cliff section that we climbed up so we walked to the proper ascent/descent route. There were 2 rap stations in different spots, The whole area was slick from water seeping out of the ground and heather. We only had a 40m rope so we coudln't use the first rap station we would downclimb abit and use the second one. It was exremely awkward the way we had to handline down but the 40m rope (20m handline) got us down just barely to some safe ground that we could downclimb. Without that rope it would have been extremely sketchy in those wet slick conditions. 2 hurdles down and we all could finally relax. This mountain was probably the hardest of the scrambles book that I have done.
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We boulder hopped the annoying boulders back to the russian army camp and had a well earned water and food break. We were kind of on a schedule to get picked up at the Squamish river so couldn't linger too long. We hauled ass on the trail back to the lake where we were greeted by about 13 girls sitting ont he dock drinking beers and ciders who were staying the night in the cabin. We had abit of time to spare so we all stripped down to our boxers and ran through their party on the dock and jumped in to wash off.

It was a steep grind down the trail, we called our pickup and told him we would be there in 1hr the agreement was to call when 1hr away and they would come get us. Instead the drunk got mad and said his buddy was there at 2pm waiting for 1hr and we didn't show. So now there is a huge clusterfuck, we get to the River when they said they would be sending someone else, but nobody showed until eventually someone showed up and said we better have 100 bucks on us or he was gonna fuck off and leave us. Held ransom by the first nations, nothing we could do so we told him the cash was in our car. We were tempted to just get across the river and then goto our car and drive off but unfortunatley it was only a 2wd drive car we were in, and they would have caught up in no time in their pickup. We paid the extra cash and were done with it. Makes for a memorable trip I guess. Like travelling overseas and paying the gringo tax.
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