FV = Fraser Valley Klesilkwa Mountain via Silk Panties Couloir May 26, 2021 - ClubTread Community

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post #1 of (permalink) Old 06-25-2021, 08:58 PM Thread Starter
High on the Mountain Top
 
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Surrey, BC, Canada.
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Default Klesilkwa Mountain via Silk Panties Couloir May 26, 2021

Unfortunately Katie my main partner has been hit with an injury that doesn't really allow her to do many big trips lately. Boulder fields and scree fields are a no no , but steep snow seems to be fine. The flavour of the week on the SWBC Peak Baggers Facebook page, which I encourage you all to join because it's really rolling right now. Tons of really good trip reports and engagement from people for beta. I tried to promote Clubtread. Anyways a few people did Klesilkwa via the West ridge and in one of the photos from Steve Song there was a beautiful snow filled gully shooting right up the South face to the summit. The plan was set and Katie was game. There was summer report on Bivouac on this line by 1/4 of the way up it splits and these people went left, we would go right.


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The Paleface FSR is in excellent condition, we got stopped by some snow higher up, but without snow you can drive extremely high. We started walking on the fsr until the end and then through a cutblock very briefly and entered into wide open forest travel. We crossed over to the other side of the creek which drains from a really nice basin at the base of the south face of the mountain.

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Katie was alittle hesitant by the looks of the couloir and snow coverage and possible choke points, but I said as I always do, let's just go take a closer look, we will keep going up and stop if we don't like anything. So up we go, and right from the start it gets steep in a hurry. One step infront of the other we just keep grinding our way up. The snow is good for crampons and ice axe and a nice easy kick step.

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We get to the split and like the look of right so up we go, the walls start to close in abit, and the grade steepens and the choke point is abit of trees to fight thru, after this it opens up abit and the line is still going straight for the summit.

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It was 300m's of goodness, silky smooth line and it literally tops you out 30 steps from the top.
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We have a break and take some pictures and then decide to go for the North summit of Klesilkwa. This one is the officially named one, but the North one is either the same height or higher, too close to tell so why not go get them both. To get there you have to downclimb the East ridge which has 1 awkward step, the fall is pretty minor, but we had a short rope so I hip belayed Katie down, and then I scrambled down it.

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After this we are at the the col and we drop off the North side losing some elevation and then follow the ridgeline to the North peak. A very straight forward ridge walk and then little summit push gets us to the top of the North Peak.
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The wind picked up and the system moving in was starting to show so we didn't stick around too long, the walk back to the col seemed to take awhile probably because we had to gain the elevation that we lost, and now were were at our descent gully. We were hoping to butt slide it but it was actually quite steep. Instead it was heel plunging until we felt safe enough to butt slide. The snow was too slushy this late in the day that an ice axe arrest wouldn't stop us if we got going too fast at the top.
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The walk back thru the forest was nice, the cutblock sucked cause we would punch through the snow now, and a nice dry fsr walk back to the truck for a very short fun day out in the mountains.

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martin, solo75, treord8 and 1 others like this.
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post #2 of (permalink) Old 06-27-2021, 10:47 PM
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Great stuff man. I am not quite sure why you post this on all but deserted CT, but I enjoy every one (incl beer shot at the end. Seems there were quite a few this time, lol).


Hope Katie feels better soon. You two are quite a team
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post #3 of (permalink) Old 06-30-2021, 04:40 PM
Ger
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I enjoy your great trip reports Spectrum. Keep up the good work.
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post #4 of (permalink) Old 07-01-2021, 01:20 PM
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I really appreciate your posting all these semi-obscure routes. Gives me lots of future trip ideas. On your pic with the route marked, did you descend down the bowl to the right?
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post #5 of (permalink) Old 07-02-2021, 01:56 PM Thread Starter
High on the Mountain Top
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by oldmatt View Post
I really appreciate your posting all these semi-obscure routes. Gives me lots of future trip ideas. On your pic with the route marked, did you descend down the bowl to the right?



Yep up the dotted marks, down the East ridge, and then eventually down that big bowl to the right of the red marks
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