Demon Peak - Dreadnaught Peak - WaterSprite Tower July 19,2018 ( WaterSprite Lake) - ClubTread Community

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post #1 of (permalink) Old 09-11-2018, 01:03 AM Thread Starter
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Default Demon Peak - Dreadnaught Peak - WaterSprite Tower July 19,2018 ( WaterSprite Lake)

A couple days after my Mount Lindeman trip, Cody The Camel a long time OG Clubtread member wanted to get out together for our yearly trip that we seem to do. Ashkan is keen to do anything mid week so we added another to our trip. The road to Watersprite was pretty rough, you want HC at least. The loop was just under 30km I believe and forgot the gain.





The weather forecast was calling for showers in the morning and abit of clearing, the trail just follows a logging road so you're not really missing much if it's cloudy. When we got to the Demon Ridge junction we hung a Larry. I don't think many people go this way, the trail was cleared just enough for semi easy travel, the clips were done at tripping height so one had to kinda high step to avoid to tapping them and bailing. Once we got into the clear cut and alpine there was no trail and flagging was minimal. Not really a big deal cause you're just trying to get to the ridge crest, but would be better if everyone stayed on the same to track to pound in abit of a footbed.







Pretty mellow ridge to our first stop of the day Demon Peak.




From here we got a good look at Dreadnaught and the connecting ridge which we had no idea what it would be like.





We did a steep descent off of Demon peak, and then carried along the ridge, things were going good, until it started to become broken up in places which they usually do. Some parts worked out, other parts didn't look too good so we ended up dropping off the ridge for a short bit, sidehilling for abit, then heading back up bypassing what we didn't think would work. Maybe it woulda, maybe it wouldn't? Either way this worked out find and we arrived at the base of Dreadnaught.







From here it was an straight forward hike up to the summit. The clouds were teasing us, sometimes Watersprite would show up and then it would be gone.







After lounging around we carried on along another ridge we had no idea if it would go, we had some route finding moments but it went how we hoped it would. Ashkan didn't have crampons or an ice axe so we couldn't carry on the full ridge loop so we would have to drop down towards the toe of WaterSprite tower and then loop around the other side and head back up.






The clouds really started to roll in when were were on the ridge leading upto the tower, Cody had mentioned something about a notch to get over to the actual summit. Well we definitely found the notch. Ashkan didn't like the look of the downclimb so he stayed behind, me and Cody mumbled and kept looking at it haha. He went first, I followed.






It's steep and the exposure is bad, but the holds were good enough and solid enough and the section short enough it didn't feel reckless. From the notch the actual top looked bad from the first side, so we cut arcoss the face to the backside that looks down on the lake, and saw a summit cairn. For one to get to the very top one must work your way up a knife edge pyramid with game over drops on either side. We thought about it for 10 min looking for different ways to the very top, but without a rope deemed it wasn't worth it. 5ft short.





Ashkan took some shots from the sub-summit we decided to head back over to him and call it a day. This one kinda bugs me and I think bugs Cody as well, he sent me a text later that night and my reply at how to get to the top was the same as his idea. Oh well we can go back another time with a rope. Once arriving at the lake we took the same shot everyone takes, saw all the new tent pads and bear caches. I"m not sure why the cabin is off in the woods not facing the lake with a view, but anyways it looks like a nice place. It's a gong show up there on weekends, but on this day we saw 2 overnight groups and 1 day trip group heading down.




We all grabbed our Insta pic on this popular rock, as Cody said #Saturation1000 lol! but we forgot to bring our swan and flamingo floaties upto the lake. As usual we ate some chips and enjoyed the PBR's on ice to wind down back at the truck. This was The Camel's idea for a trip and it was a beauty. Loops are fun.

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Last edited by Spectrum; 09-11-2018 at 01:07 AM.
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post #2 of (permalink) Old 09-11-2018, 04:25 PM
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post #3 of (permalink) Old 09-12-2018, 03:30 PM
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Thanks for the report, I was wondering what the ridge is like beyond Demon Peak.
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post #4 of (permalink) Old 09-12-2018, 07:04 PM
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Thanks for posting the trip report. I've had my eye on Watersprite tower and was wondering if you could elaborate on the route from the Lake. When I look at the tower from lakeside, is the route tend on the right back side? Is it a straightforward scramble with an obvious line? Does the technical section beyond the notch offer protection possibilities such as cracks or horns? Any idea of size of rack i.e. nuts or cams?
Would appreciate any more info you could offer.
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post #5 of (permalink) Old 09-13-2018, 03:20 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by frankhardly View Post
Thanks for posting the trip report. I've had my eye on Watersprite tower and was wondering if you could elaborate on the route from the Lake. When I look at the tower from lakeside, is the route tend on the right back side? Is it a straightforward scramble with an obvious line? Does the technical section beyond the notch offer protection possibilities such as cracks or horns? Any idea of size of rack i.e. nuts or cams?
Would appreciate any more info you could offer.

Yes from the lake we ascended up the right hand of the tower trending right, and then when it looked easy enough to cut left upto the start of the ridge that leads to the notch. All of that is straight forward, I honestly didn't pay attention to what kinda pro would be needed, but the rock seemed pretty good. These are the only 3 pics that might help you.


It's really short, I"m sure a competent rock climber can find a way up out of 3 of those sides, probably without a rope.
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post #6 of (permalink) Old 09-13-2018, 10:44 PM
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Thank you so much for responding. This is exactly what I was hoping for. Your first picture of the summit tower looks like there's a path to the right of the gentleman in the green shirt above and slightly right of the gnarled tree. Looks like a bit of a groove or crack there. Mind you, maybe there's a 1000 foot drop below this, but I'm sure with a rope and fist full of cams there's a safe way to achieve this. Very helpful. Final question: is the peak from the backside to the right or the left (relative to the notch)?
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post #7 of (permalink) Old 09-14-2018, 05:07 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by frankhardly View Post
Thank you so much for responding. This is exactly what I was hoping for. Your first picture of the summit tower looks like there's a path to the right of the gentleman in the green shirt above and slightly right of the gnarled tree. Looks like a bit of a groove or crack there. Mind you, maybe there's a 1000 foot drop below this, but I'm sure with a rope and fist full of cams there's a safe way to achieve this. Very helpful. Final question: is the peak from the backside to the right or the left (relative to the notch)?



Yes the crack up would have been nice but you are correct it's a 1000ft drop and you die if you fall. I tried to attach 2 other photos that didn't show up. From the backside of the pic shown it's only maybe 5-6ft to the top with the same drop. Alot closer and easier and more comfortable with a rope than the first pic.


To answer your questions after down climbing into the notch, to get to the summit block and backside everything to pretty much trend or stay left.

Last edited by Spectrum; 09-14-2018 at 05:10 AM.
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