I tried to get up Pelion Mtn on Aug 26/17, as a change from Ossa.The road is a bit rougher than when I was there last, but the truck still got up to the Sigurd trail head.
The first view is always great. Pelion on the left, Ossa on the right.
After getting above the creek, the route turns left at the first moraine. The hanging glacier of Ossa is in full view.
Focusing on Pelion, Fairley notes that there are a couple of routes from this side. I will try the North ridge. But I can't figure out if it is the rocks in front (to the right of the snow), or the skyline from the right. I believe the NE ridge route goes around the backside of the large prow to the left. A snow route also looks possible.
A closer look:
I head straight up the morraine and slabs to get to the edge of the ice.
Switch to boots and 4 pointers, I wasn't really prepared to do anything steep or hard. I had expected rock for this route.
After a bit of walking, I got closer to the expected route, found lots of recent activity. I decided to not go up to the rock- it looked more than the class 3 in the book, especially returning the same way without a rap rope.
Staying to the right, I changed my route to try to get over the col between Ossa and Pelion, as there is supposed to be an easy way up from the south side.
I noted the bergshrund and hoped for the best. Unfortunately, the moat was 30 ft deep, the rock step was damp and looking slimy, and the snow was too steep for the equipment I brought. The skyline ridge looked too difficult to get onto, and quite airy once on it. End of the road.
Turning around to see what was behind me, Sigurd lake to left of centre, is that Ashlu to the left?
these snow debris balls were solidly attached to the snow field. I tried to kick it over but no chance. (it was as high as me)
Coming back down, without the sun in my eyes or the camera, I got a good look at the ice and how it flows. My route was about 30 m over on flat snow.
This could be done in a day, easiest choice is the NE ridge I think. Earlier in the season will allow for easy access to the south side as well. I was back at the car in about 8 1/2 hours. A nice route for high achievers would be a circuit route to do both Pelion and Ossa in a day.