HELM HORN

With the snow melting out fast, I've made it a point to do the summits that I figured are better with a snow approach. Helm has always had bad rock. The book says it's terrible and in the summer is a scree slog. I figured on snow it might be nicer - NO NO NO. The route up from Cheakamus was pretty straight forward and well marked.



A party of four was at the Helm Creek Campground and we greeted them as they enjoyed their morning pancakes. The snow was hard in the morning but as soon as we broke from the trees it was starting to get wet and heavy. As we approached Helm we noticed cornices had caused avalanches in the bowl. No way we were gonna go in there - we took the ridge line.



Going up you get fantastic views of the Black Tusk and Panorama Ridge.







The target ahead...



Helm is officially the peak I would recommend to my worst enemy that I wanted dead, yup the rock is that bad. The Helm summit is where one should reasonably stop, just say NO to the horn. Sharp unstable slate is that all greets you. There is no way to protect it and it's exposed. Just say NO. It was butt puckering.

Working across the ridge crest







The cornices were wicked this time of year and dropping like crazy. We witnessed one fall off and cause an avalanche, there was no way I was going into any kind of bowl. Beyond all that, the views were truly astounding! The Black Tusk, Panorama Ridge, Mount Garibaldi, Tabletop, and most off all a preview of my ultimate goal - Castle Towers.



The final crux area is rotten. Loose rock that can't be protected or trusted. Everything you touch CAN come off and the price is a splat down on razor sharp slate a hundred feet down. I wish this climb was never in the book - I hated it (at least the horn, the rest is great). I feel like this is one hike I made the wrong call on and just got lucky :S I still feel yucky about it.

Total Vertical gain: (4,957ft / 23.5km)

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Wow! Some awesome pics.

That rock looks like a Jing heap....Glad you made it there and back safe and sound.

Looking good up there. I've been all over Panorama to Gentian but I have never gone over to the Helm Peak side of the Glacier. The ridge looks nice but the horn looks nasty.

It was giant Jenga puzzle. Pull one out and the entire tower crumbles. Blah.

Glad you did the on the ground research so now I know to put this on the "never ever" list Just wondering where the snow line is at? Is the Helm Campground still full of snow?

Sounds fun? Also eager to hear amount of snow at Helm Creek campground - planning a trip up there this weekend.

The snow line was at 1300m (basically still in the treeline about 3/4 up the trail) and yes the campground has lots and lots of snow still. So come prepared for snow.

Here are some extra picture for you guys of conditions when we went up of the camground and trail Hope that helps.

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Perfect...Thanks!

Masair.

Excellent report and some stunning photos. Looks a great day out with fabulous scenery.

K

Yikes.. Big pile of nope!

@Masiar, you are making pretty quick work of the Scrambles guide by my count. I'm enjoying tagging along through your TRs.

I watched a group of four tackle Helm this past Labour Day when I was up on the ridge. I spoke to them after and they didn't find it too relaxing! I agree the views from that ridge are excellent though- I'll be back to do some more exploring towards Corrie and beyond.

Anything in particular from the Scrambles that you're gearing up for this summer?

@Whyte_Lake: I'm doing my best going out every weekend Interesting you should mention Corrie Peak...I'm going to try to do the loop. Corrie 1 and 2 and down to the lake and then return to the Cheakamus trail. The current pick list for the summer and high on the list... 1) Ashlu 2) Castle Towers 3) North Twin 4) Sedgwick 5) Parkhurst/Rethel/Wedge and I'm sure more as weather permits. How about you? Any on your list?

Every rock a possible souvenir, if you live to tell the tale. Still have not been up Helm, and you're not motivating me to do so, lol. Nice report!

I'm curious as to your planned access to Sedgwick, as I still need that peak. Any info you'd share? Or pm if it's info that's best kept quiet.

I've been tempted to traverse the ridges from lake lovely water to get to Sedgwick, but just haven't had time to go yet.

And I agree that Helm is a peak I wouldn't recommend to anyone. It's one of the worst peaks I've ever scrambled. It reminded me of a few loose Rockies scrambles I have done.