I've been scouting around the North side of Sky Pilot looking for a good way to traverse the summit, rather than up and down the West Ridge.
The Gunsight Gap route is decent early in the season but has melted out quickly recently and also involves some elevation loss.

The W Couloir seemed like it would provide the easiest access to the N side of the peak. With snow, it is quite mellow and easy going. We skied it earlier this season. With the snow gone, its much less pleasant. Much loose scree and gravel. Start up easy slabs then onto the steep gravel aiming for an obvious notch in the ridge crest above. I'd be really nervous doing this with a partner with the ease that you could loose a big volly of rocks.

4th Pic

The notch looks a bit imposing but when you arrive it is quite reasonable to scramble up and much more solid.

3rd Pic

On the ridge crest now you can see the chimney system to get up the N Face and onto the ridge. Either drop down a short easy but exposed gully or traverse along steep heather above cliff bands. Reaching a slab cirque, a extruded bit of better rock allows passage up the slabby bit. This red-band rock is quite crumbly so some care must be taken to stick to the good stuff and not get too far climbers right. Once up the nasty red-band rock, you arrive at the chimneys which are much more solid granite.

2nd Pic

This takes you to the ridge crest which is initially quite wide and flat - easy running. The ridge steepens and narrows. I stayed on the right side of the crest when it was difficult. The crux section is exposed off the West Face but a nice hand crack handrail makes it easy to get through. From here it is smooth sailing on the ridge crest or the right of it to the summit. I descended the W Ridge.

1st Pic

Map and GPS track:

http://www.movescount.com/moves/move69635042

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Well if you live in the area, ya might as well try something new instead of the same ol , same ol.


Good stuff.