Headed for the Mountains
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Squamish, BC, Canada.
Wedgemount Area Conditions - July 4
Saturday we traversed the 5 peaks surrounding Wedgemount Lake. A few photos below to get an idea of conditions. Not much snow en-route to the top of cook but a tiny bit of running water. Scrambling on the NW (?) Ridge from Cook to the top of Weart is fantastic if a bit loose. Descended the scrambles route to the Wedge-Weart Col. Snow patches and lots of water flowing around here.
Followed old steps up the low route to NE Arete of Wedge. Looking down the higher route, the shrund that usually bars access is still quite well bridged. Arete was fine, we had to wander a bit to avoid some rock outcrops but stuck on snow the whole way. Snow is disappearing quickly however.
Mental crux of the day was descending the scrambles route on Wedge - don't wish that on anyone. Just a small snow patch - otherwise just scree.
Lots of water at Wedge-Parkhurst Col. No snow on Parkhurst (just scree). Quick up-down from Parkhurst-Rethel Col to tag Rethel. Descending scrambles route from Parkhurst-Rethel Col was pretty horrible. Very loose, sandy, wet gullies between snow patches. Only a little bit of snow. Scooted around skiers left side of the lake and waded through the outflow. Down the first boulder gully and intersected the trail in the avalanche debris area.
Wedgemount Glacier is totally bare at the bottom - with a weird collapsed hole. Snow on the upper section looks well crevassed. It looks like you could approach the Wedge-Weart Col by sticking to the left edge of the glacier and avoid most of the sketchy crevasses. Overall things are looking very August/September like. Bare ice and big shrunds.
1) NF of Wedge from Parkhurst
2) Descent gullies from Parkhurst-Rethel Col
3) View of Weart from NE Arete. Not sure why its upside down.
4) Wedge NE Arete - we stayed on snow.
5) Wedge glacier - bare ice on the lower half.
Last edited by ecarter1; 07-06-2015 at 12:08 PM.