Mount Rexford - Jun 15 15 - Page 2 - ClubTread Community

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post #16 of (permalink) Old 06-17-2015, 07:51 PM
Dru
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Spectrum View Post
Is Rexford really a scramble?
This is where the traditional 5 class system is more useful and flexible than trying to enforce a scramble/climb dichotomy.

The west ridge of Rexford is pretty much the textbook definition of 4th Class climbing, and that also seems to have been the style used for the route in this report, i.e. I see a rope being used but not a lot of intermediate protection, so the rope is being used to safeguard the seconds rather than to mitigate the consequences of a slip or fall by the leader.
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post #17 of (permalink) Old 06-17-2015, 07:58 PM
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Nice report Simon, a great day out with Vlad and you, and awesomer pictures!
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post #18 of (permalink) Old 06-17-2015, 08:40 PM
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How good a climber do you need to be to lead the way? what sort of protection can you best place?
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post #19 of (permalink) Old 06-17-2015, 09:19 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by muskeeto View Post
How good a climber do you need to be to lead the way? what sort of protection can you best place?
If you can climb Corn Flakes in the Smoke Bluffs you won't find this any different, in fact, probably a fair bit easier.

What sort of protection do you have? I assure you you will find a place for it on this route if you look hard enough. Really, if you were going to lug gear up here for this route I would take the lightest rack you could get away with. Like four finger size nuts and four hand to fist sized hexes and a couple of shoulder length slings.

You can see that Ed didn't place anything of the sort, and I can presume, just used body belays, too?
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post #20 of (permalink) Old 06-18-2015, 12:36 AM
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If this route had little or no exposure it would be fairly simple to climb. I'm not a good rock climber but if one can overcome the exposure and focus on the task it makes for an enjoyable climb.
I actually belayed through a stich plate(a somewhat old school belay device) and anchored myself with a sling slung around a block. If you wanted protection it wouldn't be impossible to use a couple of large slings.
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post #21 of (permalink) Old 06-18-2015, 01:32 AM
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Awesome Ed, for leading the climb on this one, and then having everyone safely off. Great report and pictures as usual, Simon. Thanks for sharing the adventure.

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post #22 of (permalink) Old 06-18-2015, 01:48 AM
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Excellent report and great work Ed, Simon and Vlad! I would love to try this one day down the road - with someone more experienced than myself. I am working my way up to more difficult scrambles but have limited exposure experience. Climbed and sat on summit boulder of Lady Peak yesterday, but didn't attempt to or have any desire to stand up on it as the exposure got to me... so I appreciate peoples ability to keep calm and cool when one slip could be deadly.

Last edited by outdoors guy; 06-18-2015 at 11:45 AM.
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post #23 of (permalink) Old 06-18-2015, 12:53 PM Thread Starter
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There are rap slings at all the tricky sections along the route. For the average scrambler it is a huge advantage to have someone familiar with the route and capable to lead it.


Of note, the gate (Fisheries) near the Nesakwatch junction for the road leading down to Centre Creek was open. There's also a couple of small new cutblocks visible partway up Centre Creek. See picture 5 for reference.
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post #24 of (permalink) Old 06-18-2015, 03:55 PM
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Knee pain? Might be time to grab some poles.
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post #25 of (permalink) Old 06-18-2015, 06:15 PM
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There are a couple other guys I know who've climbed Rexford - they rate it as one of the best. Good to see your group make it.
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post #26 of (permalink) Old 06-19-2015, 02:24 AM
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I do not know you Ed but you don't seem to have a problem with heights. Nerves of carbon fibre or something
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post #27 of (permalink) Old 06-19-2015, 03:18 AM
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Heights are scary!
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post #28 of (permalink) Old 06-22-2015, 06:55 PM
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Superb report and pics, as always, Simon. Glad to hear it isn't all easy-peasy for you. Also nice to know you have the occasional pain. Means you're really not Superman, like I sometimes start to think
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