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post #16 of (permalink) Old 08-21-2014, 10:30 AM
High on the Mountain Top
 
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Many thanks for the time you put into this trip report. Great read and pictures as well (mouth full of sandwich and radishes lol)

KARL says "This is beyond me; I would need a rope and someone experienced in belaying in order to do this".

I can belay you Karl!
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post #17 of (permalink) Old 08-22-2014, 02:12 AM
Off the Beaten Path
 
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I love your enthusiasm, great trip! One day I'll get up there and I'm pretty sure thecamel just offered to guide me
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post #18 of (permalink) Old 08-25-2014, 01:25 PM
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Best instruction on the crux there. Very helpful indeed. Thanks for this. And what a fun trip this is!
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post #19 of (permalink) Old 08-25-2014, 01:43 PM
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Outstanding description and detail. Really appreciate this, although I'd only attempt this with someone more climbing experienced than I am. Great report.
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post #20 of (permalink) Old 08-26-2014, 02:44 PM
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Excellent report! I like the positive energy in the writing and photos!

Those pink slab photos are excellent. I think these were the first photos I've seen that really give a good idea of the slab angle.

I was also toying with the idea of going up there with a super wide angle lens (around 10mm) to see if that'd help too, but it'd be tough without people on the slope to give a point of reference.
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post #21 of (permalink) Old 08-26-2014, 05:38 PM
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[quote]Hmm... how long has that bolted anchor been there?/quote]

Gone before long I suspect, along with the bivy walls...whats the saying...oh ya leave no trace
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post #22 of (permalink) Old 08-26-2014, 09:15 PM
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[quote]quote:Originally posted by J Mace

Quote:
Hmm... how long has that bolted anchor been there?/quote]

Gone before long I suspect, along with the bivy walls...whats the saying...oh ya leave no trace
Bivy wall has been there since at least 2011 when i was last up Sky Pilot.
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post #23 of (permalink) Old 08-27-2014, 01:02 PM
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Quote:
quote:Originally posted by BlackPete

Excellent report! I like the positive energy in the writing and photos!

Those pink slab photos are excellent. I think these were the first photos I've seen that really give a good idea of the slab angle.

I was also toying with the idea of going up there with a super wide angle lens (around 10mm) to see if that'd help too, but it'd be tough without people on the slope to give a point of reference.
Good idea. I've got a really wide angle lens too. As I haven't done this one yet, I'll try to remember to bring the 11-16mm lens. I have a GoPro too, but I'm not a big fan of it (even though it does have some uses).
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post #24 of (permalink) Old 09-17-2014, 02:04 PM Thread Starter
Headed for the Mountains
 
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In memory of Michael Taylor

http://www.piquenewsmagazine.com/whi...nt?oid=2568093

Please note when we did the route the snow was still soft. Overnight temperatures are near zero and it's very icy on the glacier now. Please bring crampons/ice axe and know your limits.
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post #25 of (permalink) Old 09-21-2014, 07:10 PM
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Quite honestly, I think if you're finding yourself on 5.3 - 5.4 rock on the slab, you're off-route. We used to do it in spring as a ski trip and had no difficulty wearing leather tele boots, unroped, on the slab either up or down. And I never was the best rock climber. You can certainly find difficult scrambling, but there's a diagonal line that gets up to no more than class 4, a kind of scar on the face. On spring snow there was more serious objective danger above the slab where you'd send small avalanches over the cliffs to your right as you contoured round to the back of the summit. Another potential hazard, similar to the descent off the West Lion, is entering the wrong gully when coming off the summit ridge. It's wise to register your descent gully carefully on the way up.

I'm afraid this new gondola is going to keep SAR busy summer and winter in future.
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