Wedge via NE Arete - Parkhurst -Rethel Loop 7/7/14 - ClubTread Community

User Tag List

Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools
post #1 of (permalink) Old 07-08-2014, 06:00 PM Thread Starter
High on the Mountain Top
 
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Surrey, BC, Canada.
Posts: 1,822
Default Wedge via NE Arete - Parkhurst -Rethel Loop 7/7/14

I had a post up in the sign up section, had a few nibbles but no 100% hits. If I had company I would have been fine just doing Wedge but since I kinda despise the Wedgemount trail I figured I'de get the other 2 out of the way since I was flying solo.

Parked at the new trail head, I"m not sure if it's lower or higher than the old one but the travel was quite nice to where it connects with the old one and made it to the lake in 2hrs.


Dropped down to the lake and followed it to the toe of the glacier where I put on the crampons and tried to follow some old melted tracks but with all the suncups I think I was just telling myself they were old tracks to make me feel better about wandering around on a glacier by myself. The lower access route upto the arete came into view so I made my way up that to get to the start of the arete.


Crampons weren't needed at the start and for most of the arete until maybe after the mid way point. Right away at the start there is a rock gap that needs to be crossed, vertical drops on either side and to be honest I felt that this was one of the hardest parts of the trip. The snow was alittle soft but from the previous tracks I was able to kick some pretty safe secure steps that felt solid. The only time it was sloppy and big postholes was around the rock near the top for only a few steps here or there but being able to grab the rock I felt secure.



Soon enough I top out on the West Ridge staring up at the summit as the clouds roll in to take away the views.


After a good sized break trying to dry socks I head down the terrible boulder bash West ridge route. I would scope out whatever fingers of snow were left and have awesome butt slides down them. By using my feet to brake it would kick up huge rooster tails of snow into my face to cool me down.


Once at the base of the West Ridge I dropped down into the basin and made my way over to the Wedge-Parkurst col and angled upto the top of Parkurst


From here I get a look over at Rethel and where I have to drop down to the Rethel-Parkhurst Col. Rethel was kinda drepressing as it was just more loose scree bashing on an upward angle just below the actual ridge line to avoid wasteful ups and downs and now I've reach the 3rd and final peak with the other 2 I just did in the back ground. No more, I just want to go home now.


Back at the Parkurst-Rethel col I take the scrambles route back, what a kick in the junk this route is. Loose, steep, ugly, had to put my crampons back on at one spot to jump onto the snow and then more boulder hopping to the lake crossing where I took a nice rest, walked right through the lake with boots on because it felt good on my feet.


Put the ipod on and got down to the car where sandals have never felt any better, I was even too tired to have a beer. I don't have a gps but it's around the 30km mark and close to 9000 el. approx.


Spectrum is offline  
Quote
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #2 of (permalink) Old 07-08-2014, 06:36 PM
Summit Master
 
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Vancouver BC
Interest: 10%
Posts: 5,022
Default

That about sums things up.


simonc is offline  
post #3 of (permalink) Old 07-08-2014, 06:37 PM
DPM
Off the Beaten Path
 
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Vancouver, British Columbia, Canada.
Posts: 630
Default

Nice one!

"...too tired to have a beer." - no way?!
DPM is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #4 of (permalink) Old 07-08-2014, 06:39 PM
Summit Master
 
zeljkok's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2009
Location: Anywhere but social media
Posts: 4,919
Default

Quote:
quote:Originally posted by Spectrum

Dropped down to the lake and followed it to the toe of the glacier where I put on the crampons and tried to follow some old melted tracks but with all the suncups I think I was just telling myself they were old tracks to make me feel better about wandering around on a glacier by myself.
That was likely your pal ubishops. Wedge glacier is his living room; he only comes down 3 times a week to post report on CT (new one, every time)

Great trip, congratulations! Wedge area is most photogenic this time of year. You do look tired on that pic in the chair by the car; is there a such thing as "too tired for a beer" though?
zeljkok is online now  
post #5 of (permalink) Old 07-08-2014, 06:43 PM
Off the Beaten Path
 
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: Delta, B.C., Canada.
Interest: Mountaineering
Posts: 520
Default

"too tired to have a beer", it's a good things you grandparents aren't here to have to hear that, and Mick will be shocked. That's a big day in a beautiful area, nicely done.....your old man.
dblair is offline  
post #6 of (permalink) Old 07-08-2014, 06:52 PM
Banned
 
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: BC, Canada.
Posts: 1,586
Default

Wow, huge day. Funny how one side of Wedge is so pretty and the other just an ugly rubble heap.
Candy Sack is offline  
post #7 of (permalink) Old 07-08-2014, 07:07 PM
High on the Mountain Top
 
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: Vancouver, BC, Canada.
Interest: Mountains,skiing,cooking,Conspiracies,reading
Posts: 1,280
Default

Too tired for beer? Ya hear that ,Mick? Kore,Krumm Jr.Not to nitpick,but your tr is over the 15 pic limit,and has no serac close up shots.
tedoliver is offline  
post #8 of (permalink) Old 07-08-2014, 07:40 PM Thread Starter
High on the Mountain Top
 
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Surrey, BC, Canada.
Posts: 1,822
Default

Skeeters were out,alone, and long ass drive back to tsawwassen and 1 beer would just make me sleepy after a trip like that.
Next time I will remember this online peer pressure and just shotgun a beer lol.

Spectrum is offline  
post #9 of (permalink) Old 07-08-2014, 08:36 PM
High on the Mountain Top
 
thecamel's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Vancouver, BC, Canada.
Posts: 1,789
Default

Did the bypass (Upper Glacier route) look in?

Nice three!
thecamel is offline  
post #10 of (permalink) Old 07-08-2014, 08:59 PM
Summit Master
 
mick range's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: Forest Gnome Cabin, , Canada.
Interest: Outdoor stuff...especially scrambling,trailrunning,mountain biking,kayaking,and hiking, and of course photography
Posts: 13,876
Default

Quote:
quote:Originally posted by dblair

"too tired to have a beer", it's a good things you grandparents aren't here to have to hear that, and Mick will be shocked. That's a big day in a beautiful area, nicely done.....your old man.
Not shocked, Al was beyond exhausted at that point. Happens to us all, lol!
Helluva day out, and props for describing that route down as a "kick in the junk".
Entertaining read!
mick range is offline  
post #11 of (permalink) Old 07-08-2014, 09:11 PM
Off the Beaten Path
 
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Sunshine Coast, BC, Canada.
Posts: 883
Default

Great useful details and update. Thanks.
trailrunner is offline  
post #12 of (permalink) Old 07-08-2014, 10:31 PM Thread Starter
High on the Mountain Top
 
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Surrey, BC, Canada.
Posts: 1,822
Default

Quote:
quote:Originally posted by thecamel

Did the bypass (Upper Glacier route) look in?

Nice three!
I don't know the proper route for the upper bypass, but judging by this pic I would say probably not?
Spectrum is offline  
post #13 of (permalink) Old 07-08-2014, 10:43 PM
Off the Beaten Path
 
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Burnaby, BC, Canada.
Interest: Rock and Ice Climbing, mountaineering, AT skiing, xc skiing, backpacking, hiking...
Posts: 724
Default

Holy F..K Young Krumm.

Way to get er done.

Reminds me of the pounding we took doing 'Castle Towers'

WE were too pooped to drink beer at the end of that Motha as well
burndug is offline  
post #14 of (permalink) Old 07-08-2014, 11:19 PM
EAK
High on the Mountain Top
 
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Abbotsford, BC, Canada.
Interest: climbing, hiking, birding, art, writing, reading, volunteering in corrections
Posts: 1,222
Default

I was tired after just Rethel and Parkhurst, all 3 that's a satisfying day! That's a pretty ridge.
EAK is offline  
post #15 of (permalink) Old 07-09-2014, 12:26 AM
Dru
Super Moderator
 
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Climbing, a mountain, Canada.
Interest: climbing and spraying
Posts: 16,175
Default

Sometimes abstinence is a wise choice,.
Dru is offline  
Reply

Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page



Posting Rules  
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On

 
For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome
 

Search Engine Optimization by vBSEO 3.6.1