It's like a TR about this peak can't start without a disclaimer about the names. I'm going with bivouacs naming of the summits.

After a dreary attempt at Needle peak on the Coq a few weeks back and around 8hrs of driving return I realized the Coq area will need to be explored at a later date. For now, there are plenty of peaks in our backyard here in Squamish and North of here that require much less driving. Plus, probably a no brainer to veteran peak baggers, but I realized that if I concentrate on peaks in and around the same area a peak bagged could also provide me with valuable beta on the next peak I wish to summit in the area.

Anyway, we where supposed to be doing Brandywine Mountain last weekend, but after a sudden turn in the weather overnight for that peak, we scrapped that plan and, with blue skies over Squamish, decided to explore some of the peaks just up behind where we live.

We decided to follow the route described in simonc's TR from 2005 (https://www.clubtread.com/sforum/topi...TOPIC_ID=10190) and go to both summits then drop down into the bowl below the saddle.

We parked at the concrete blocks at the Mulligan NW spur at around 7km's up the Mamquam FSR. Our little 2WD wouldn't make it past the first waterbar so we where hiking from ~420m elev.. A decent HC 4x4 could make it up to about 720m elev. which is where the snow line is on the road atm.



1. Loads of shotgun shells on the ground. I guess this place is used for target practice
2. The snow line, at about 720m elev.
3. The Garibaldi Massif, with Little Diamond Head, where we were camping the previous weekend
4. The back of the Chiefs North summit



1. Heading up towards Mt. Mulligan through a cutblock
2. Approaching the summit
3. The Sky Pilot group coming into view behind the ridges that connect to Mt. Anif
4. Elevation of Mt. Mulligan



1. Summit views
2. Heading towards Mt. Anif
3. Too many photo ops
4. I descended to low off the Mt. Mulligan and ended up below the saddle by about 50m's. We just kick stepped our way back up to the saddle.



1. Heading up the steeped slopes of Mt. Anif
2. Loads of false summits on the way up. I think I counted 4
3. With the Sky Pilot group finally in view
4. The summit ridge



1. Making my way across the ridge
2. Success
3. DIY on the summit
4. Summit shot with Sky Pilot behind



1. Zoom on Black Tusk
2. Jumping shot
3. Summit elevation
4. Zoom on another area we plan to explore in the coming months



1. An eagle soaring high above us. It circled us a few times before heading off
2. Zoom on the Lions
3. DIY shot
4. Nice view for lunch



1. Crampons, not really needed, but we wanted some practice with them
2. Descending back across
3. Spring with the Squamish valley below
4. Descending off Mt. Anif towards the saddle



1. Heading down off the saddle into the bowl between Mulligan and Anif to meet up with the FSR
2. Final shot of Mt. Alpha overlooking the Squamish valley

GPS Images

Looks like a very nice day!!

Echo Lake area, Lapworth et al and Sedgwick? You could spend a few good days up there rambling along the ridge tops.

Can you comment on the snow conditions? Penetration etc.

Ya Brandywine Mountain would depend on how far you could make it up the FSR.

Yeah. We've been looking up there since we arrived in Squamish. Ideally I'd like to spend a few nights up there and explore the peaks around the lake.

The snow conditions on Mulligan and Anif are similar to those being seen around a lot of the coast mountains atm. The isothermal spring snow on top, especially above ~1300m by my guess, releases slow wet slides of an inch or 2 deep very easily. Small bits of snow we knocked off on the summit ridge we could see start to cause larger wet slides off to the side as they continued to roll.

This was only in open areas, in the trees the snowpack felt a lot more stable and consolidated.

Great Pictures! Nicely done.

Interesting photo. Are you being pursued by something large and scary or are you just in a hurry to get to the beer stashed in the creek?

Just for fun, I measured the slope, it is about 35 degrees (FWIW?).

lol... no beer or bear. Snow was too wet and soft to glissade or butt slide and when you moved slow the area around your foot would just slide loose. We found it was easier to descend the slope by moving faster and plunge stepping to stay out of the small wet slides that kept getting triggered.

Plus, it was more fun

Updated OP with some GPS screencaps

Nice Looks like a fun day! I love that first black and white photo so much! Your gal just got in touch with me about possibly hitting the trails together. Really looking forward to meeting you both. Cheers!

Sweet. You two look like you're having a blast here in BC. Thanks for reinvigorating my local jaded ass.

He he, Simon said penetration