Strangley I have never been up the Black Tusk yet but done many trips and bagged many peaks around Garibaldi lake. This was going to change but if I was going to do this it had to be the true summit. A rotting narrow spire that stands about 10ft higher than the often visited main summit. My friend Nicole who isn't a climber wanted to give the Tusk a try as well but obviously only as far as the main summit. Armed with 20lb's of climbing gear including two ropes we set off at 5.00am for the Microwave Tower road. Well much to our dismay this has a new super heavy duty gate and appears nobody will ever be going up there again. This meant heading back to the super borring slog up from Rubble creek
We set off and were at the Tusk by around 1.00PM. Carefully Nicole and I negotiated the chimmney which was actually much easier than I expected. We pushed on up to the main summit where the fun would begin. Pacing around trying to figure out if I should try and climb the true summit pinaccle it was finnaly go or go down. I finnally gathered up the nerve ancoured the summmit cairn and went over the edge as crap crashed down all over the place. Down at the base of summit pinacle I carefully scrambled scree and then began to climb a short solo pitch to the summit. I got about 5 feet from the top when it got ugly. Everything I touched was loose and ready to fall down. I basicaly found the pieces of rock that seemed to move the least and carefully and quickly made my move for the summit and reached it. Breathing heavily and spending a good miniute to regain my composure it was time to sign the register pull out another rope and prepare to rap down.
My name on the register. Didn't have time to read stories as it was cold but am sure not too many people have been here before.
Looking at the main summit below.
A very happy Jeffster
As I rapped down debris came crashing down everywhere, Nicole just quit watching but described things as this. Bang crash, looks at pink rope I used to rap of true summit and it still moving, more banging and crashing pink rope still moving. Pink rope disappears and more banging and crashing. Green rope I used to rap down of main summit starts moving and banging and crashing continues as I used my asecnders to regain the main peak. Basicaly the place was a shooting gallery but as long as she saw ropes moving knew I was still game. That feeling of coming up and over the lip to regain the main summit was incredibile. The actuall technical difficulty to bag the main summit is not all that bad but the objective danger is just nuts. Sure feel good to have made it though
Nothing ventured, nothing gained!!