Bagging the Black Tusk for real. Oct 22 2006 - ClubTread Community

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post #1 of (permalink) Old 10-22-2006, 09:41 PM Thread Starter
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Default Bagging the Black Tusk for real. Oct 22 2006

Strangley I have never been up the Black Tusk yet but done many trips and bagged many peaks around Garibaldi lake. This was going to change but if I was going to do this it had to be the true summit. A rotting narrow spire that stands about 10ft higher than the often visited main summit. My friend Nicole who isn't a climber wanted to give the Tusk a try as well but obviously only as far as the main summit. Armed with 20lb's of climbing gear including two ropes we set off at 5.00am for the Microwave Tower road. Well much to our dismay this has a new super heavy duty gate and appears nobody will ever be going up there again. This meant heading back to the super borring slog up from Rubble creek

We set off and were at the Tusk by around 1.00PM. Carefully Nicole and I negotiated the chimmney which was actually much easier than I expected. We pushed on up to the main summit where the fun would begin. Pacing around trying to figure out if I should try and climb the true summit pinaccle it was finnaly go or go down. I finnally gathered up the nerve ancoured the summmit cairn and went over the edge as crap crashed down all over the place. Down at the base of summit pinacle I carefully scrambled scree and then began to climb a short solo pitch to the summit. I got about 5 feet from the top when it got ugly. Everything I touched was loose and ready to fall down. I basicaly found the pieces of rock that seemed to move the least and carefully and quickly made my move for the summit and reached it. Breathing heavily and spending a good miniute to regain my composure it was time to sign the register pull out another rope and prepare to rap down.


My name on the register. Didn't have time to read stories as it was cold but am sure not too many people have been here before.


Looking at the main summit below.


A very happy Jeffster

As I rapped down debris came crashing down everywhere, Nicole just quit watching but described things as this. Bang crash, looks at pink rope I used to rap of true summit and it still moving, more banging and crashing pink rope still moving. Pink rope disappears and more banging and crashing. Green rope I used to rap down of main summit starts moving and banging and crashing continues as I used my asecnders to regain the main peak. Basicaly the place was a shooting gallery but as long as she saw ropes moving knew I was still game. That feeling of coming up and over the lip to regain the main summit was incredibile. The actuall technical difficulty to bag the main summit is not all that bad but the objective danger is just nuts. Sure feel good to have made it though

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post #2 of (permalink) Old 10-22-2006, 09:53 PM
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Nice, Jeff, no fear of shrapnel for you after that ( either that, or more fear, I can't guess which one)[B)][:0]
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post #3 of (permalink) Old 10-22-2006, 09:54 PM
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Glad to hear you got out of that one alright Jeff []. You got a picture of the true summit from the main summit?
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post #4 of (permalink) Old 10-22-2006, 10:01 PM
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Nice. I don't think I've seen any other reports going to the true summit. Now I know why. No fun.
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post #5 of (permalink) Old 10-22-2006, 10:14 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
quote:Originally posted by Scrambler

Nice. I don't think I've seen any other reports going to the true summit. Now I know why. No fun.
It's great fun now.
Bivoac had a couple reports for the true summit though.

Sorry Spunky I was really bad with the camera this time and don't have that picture. The whole situation had me pretty focused on the task.

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post #6 of (permalink) Old 10-22-2006, 10:37 PM
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Where's the tank top???
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post #7 of (permalink) Old 10-22-2006, 10:47 PM
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Should have "crumbly peak baggin" added to your descriptor (thinking back on your Helm trip which sounded similar)

Black Tusk remains on my list yet, funny, cos it's how I stumbled across clubtread in the first place

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post #8 of (permalink) Old 10-22-2006, 11:29 PM
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Quote:
quote:This meant heading back to the super borring slog up from Rubble creek
Nice Job Jeff, what stopped you from going up the Cheakamus lake road and doing the Helm trail to the Tusk instead because you were already in the area basically[?]

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Paul
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post #9 of (permalink) Old 10-23-2006, 12:04 AM
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That is darn scary with all those rocks falling.

Lucky you remained unscathed.

Regards,
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post #10 of (permalink) Old 10-23-2006, 07:12 AM
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Ascenders on the fixed rope that is "fixed" to the cairn, whoa [] [][]


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post #11 of (permalink) Old 10-23-2006, 07:25 AM
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Exciting! Rotting Narrow Spire! So, is the true summit a little lower after the shift of debris? Fantastic accomplishment; exciting to read. Got heart rate up just reading it.

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post #12 of (permalink) Old 10-23-2006, 07:42 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
quote:Originally posted by Dru

Ascenders on the fixed rope that is "fixed" to the cairn, whoa [] [][]
LOL, I know that looks really bad. My friend was asking me if I was really going to use that as an ancour. What you can't see is that at the back of the cairn I got my webbing down low enough to snag a piece of rock that was actually attached to the mountain.

Quote:
quote:Originally posted by pmicheals

Quote:
quote:This meant heading back to the super borring slog up from Rubble creek
Nice Job Jeff, what stopped you from going up the Cheakamus lake road and doing the Helm trail to the Tusk instead because you were already in the area basically[?]

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Paul
Looking at my topo for the area it seemed to me that trail from Cheakamus was actually quite a bit longer but considered going that way.
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post #13 of (permalink) Old 10-23-2006, 09:51 AM
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[8D].
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post #14 of (permalink) Old 10-23-2006, 10:08 AM
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Nice work, Jeffster. Good to see you made it up and down that mess safely. Thanks for sharing the report.

PB
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post #15 of (permalink) Old 10-23-2006, 09:23 PM
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Quote:
quote:Originally posted by Jeffster


LOL, I know that looks really bad. My friend was asking me if I was really going to use that as an ancour. What you can't see is that at the back of the cairn I got my webbing down low enough to snag a piece of rock that was actually attached to the mountain.
I don't think that there is anything there that is actually "attached". Hat's off to you for doing it anyway.
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