Despite an exausting but successfull summit of Sir Donald via the classic NW ridge this day would prove to be one of the most difficult and sad days of Paulo's and my life. We even talked about mabye not even doing a TR at all but if the lessons told save 1 life it is worth it. Paulo and I saw a woman rap down a rope which did not reach the ground. We pointed it out thinking all right she will stop and we will somehow get out there and pull her in. Well running a normal ATC on a twin rope gave little friction and it became apparent she could not hold on. I was roped up for a rap on a pair of bolted rings about 15 feet away and with Paulo's help pendulumed out to get her to tie a knot in the rope below here. By the time I leg wrapped the rope to give myself the friction I needed to free my hands and tie the knot she was gone. I won't talk about what we saw after but know it's a moment in our lives that will forever be etched into our memeories. I greive for her family and feel so much guilt that we could not reach her in time.
Take away one of these 5 scenarios and the out come is different.
1 Rope didn't reach the ground
2 Ends not tied
3 Right size ATC for a twin rope
4 no back up prussik
5 lack of knowledge on how to create additional friction.
I hope perhaps someone may read this and have a thought when they are on rappel of how serious this routine skill is.
I will add some pictures but forgive me for not saying much about such a classic and what should be amazing climb, just doesn't seem so great right now. God bless her and those who love her.
NW ridge is entire left sky line
Paulo at base of climb
Assorted climbing pictures
A couple summit pic's.
Nothing ventured, nothing gained!!