Sir Donald. Our worse nightmare. Aug 20th - ClubTread Community

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post #1 of (permalink) Old 08-21-2006, 08:22 AM Thread Starter
High on the Mountain Top
 
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Default Sir Donald. Our worse nightmare. Aug 20th

Despite an exausting but successfull summit of Sir Donald via the classic NW ridge this day would prove to be one of the most difficult and sad days of Paulo's and my life. We even talked about mabye not even doing a TR at all but if the lessons told save 1 life it is worth it. Paulo and I saw a woman rap down a rope which did not reach the ground. We pointed it out thinking all right she will stop and we will somehow get out there and pull her in. Well running a normal ATC on a twin rope gave little friction and it became apparent she could not hold on. I was roped up for a rap on a pair of bolted rings about 15 feet away and with Paulo's help pendulumed out to get her to tie a knot in the rope below here. By the time I leg wrapped the rope to give myself the friction I needed to free my hands and tie the knot she was gone. I won't talk about what we saw after but know it's a moment in our lives that will forever be etched into our memeories. I greive for her family and feel so much guilt that we could not reach her in time.

Take away one of these 5 scenarios and the out come is different.

1 Rope didn't reach the ground

2 Ends not tied

3 Right size ATC for a twin rope

4 no back up prussik

5 lack of knowledge on how to create additional friction.

I hope perhaps someone may read this and have a thought when they are on rappel of how serious this routine skill is.


I will add some pictures but forgive me for not saying much about such a classic and what should be amazing climb, just doesn't seem so great right now. God bless her and those who love her.



NW ridge is entire left sky line


Paulo at base of climb


Assorted climbing pictures


A couple summit pic's.

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post #2 of (permalink) Old 08-21-2006, 08:36 AM
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Thanks for posting this Jeff... I know how you both must feel...

I'm not a climber, however I am aware that it can be fun and exciting... However, like you said (and true for most things) experience is manditory in all walks of life...

Sad story...

C'Jack...

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post #3 of (permalink) Old 08-21-2006, 08:37 AM
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OMG Jeff, what a horrible experience, my condolences to all those involved.

It was good of you to try and help, and you still deserve a hearty congratulations on achieving the summit.
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post #4 of (permalink) Old 08-21-2006, 08:43 AM
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Jeff and Paul-I know that must have been a very difficult event to witness. Even worse to be that woman's family and getting the phone call from the park service. Knowing the two of you, you both did absolutely everything you could, given the situation. Don't let the guilt part get on top of you!
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post #5 of (permalink) Old 08-21-2006, 08:51 AM
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Really sorry to read this Jeffster and Paulo. I can only imagine what you're going through. Take care.

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post #6 of (permalink) Old 08-21-2006, 08:53 AM
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Oh man, that sucks.
Would it have made any difference if you had a prussik yourself instad of needing to do a leg wrap?

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post #7 of (permalink) Old 08-21-2006, 08:56 AM
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This is truly sad. My best wishes to her family and friends.
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post #8 of (permalink) Old 08-21-2006, 09:01 AM
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oh goodness - I am so sorry.

Jeff and Paulo - you did the best that you could with what you could, there is nothing to feel guilty about (but all the emotions that you feel right now are completely normal)

My sincerest sympathies to the unknown woman's friends and family - and goodness, to the person rapping her that day.
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post #9 of (permalink) Old 08-21-2006, 09:05 AM
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Oh my goodness, I feel sick to my stomach reading this. No words of wisdom ever come to mind at times like these.
My condolences to her family, and as previously said don't let the guilt get to you - you did everything you could.
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post #10 of (permalink) Old 08-21-2006, 09:11 AM
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Very sorry to hear that very sad.
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post #11 of (permalink) Old 08-21-2006, 09:11 AM
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I'm sorry that you and Paulo had to experience this awful moment... and of course I feel for those close to the woman who lost her life. I hope you never have to go through something like this again.
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post #12 of (permalink) Old 08-21-2006, 09:34 AM
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That's awful beyond imagination. I feel sick just reading about it, I can't even imagine what it must be like for you and Paul. You guys did everything you could, so don't be to hard on yourselves.
My condolences to her family and friends.
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post #13 of (permalink) Old 08-21-2006, 09:39 AM
cjb
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You showed good judgement in recognizing a dangerous situation and getting over to help as quickly as you could. Good for you for doing so, and honoring this woman's memory by describing exactly what went wrong, thereby lessening the situation's chances of ever happening again.
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post #14 of (permalink) Old 08-21-2006, 10:08 AM
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Thank you for sharing this with us. I can't imagine how difficult this TR must have been to write and I hope it will do as you wish, save at least one other life. You both are heros to me as you tried to help this lady and you have tried to use this horribly sad moment to try to educate others. Thank you.

My condolences to both of you and the lady's family. My prayers are with you.

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post #15 of (permalink) Old 08-21-2006, 10:11 AM
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What a terrible experience for all involved. My condolences to the ladies family. Jeff and Paul, kudos to you two for your brave attempt. A sad day indeed.
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