Mount Murchison - ClubTread Community

User Tag List

 
LinkBack Thread Tools
post #1 of (permalink) Old 08-27-2013, 11:32 AM Thread Starter
High on the Mountain Top
 
vern.dewit's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Calgary, Alberta, Canada.
Posts: 1,166
Default Mount Murchison

Last week Raff and I took advantage of good weather and conditions to be the 5th ascent part to record an entry in Mount Murchison's highest summit register. As usual, a full (and long) trip report can be found on my web site (http://www.explor8ion.com/mountaineering/murchison.html) but here's the short version for preservation on ClubTread.

We used Andrew Nugara's (http://www.freewebtown.com/anugara/murchison.html) and Rick Collier's (http://bivouac.com/TripPg.asp?TripId=3574) trip reports to come up with a 'mostly scramble' route to the true (SE) summit of Murchison. We ascended the forested slope on climber's left of the drainage up from the Mistaya Falls (Sarbach) parking area and the moderate to difficult scrambling terrain in the upper amphitheater to the SW shoulder for our bivy. It took us 3.5 hours to reach the bivy but that was moving quickly through challenging (loose, steep, route finding) terrain. I think 4-5 hours with bivy gear is probably realistic for most parties. The views from the bivy were astounding already!



The second day we ascended the SE (true) summit via the SW shoulder and south face, working our way to the NW/SE summit col to avoid the rappel along the ridge from the NW to the SE summits. We did manage to avoid this rappel by using the snow gully under the NW summit and then traversing east to the couloir leading to the col. The terrain was very loose with both loose dinner plate scree and concrete-hard nasty scree / sn'ice in sections.

Once on the ridge we followed very loose, exposed and steep 4th and low 5th class terrain to just below the summit block where we tried to find an 'easy' way up. We spent almost an hour but for some reason couldn't find a line that we'd be able to down climb easily. Eventually we gave up (I think we should have looked further back for a better route on hindsight) and just went up some low 5th class stuff. The summit view was incredible and it felt great to be the 5th recorded ascent party in the register of such a high and visible summit. Our GPS agreed with the previous parties - for sure around 3352 and possibly over the 11,000 foot level with readings as high as 3360!



The trip down was long, loose and tiring but the weather was great and the stunning views in all directions certainly helped too. I would not recommend Murchison for large ascent parties and would suggest some light climbing / mountaineering gear as well (crampons / ax / slings / rap gear / small rack). This mountain has only been climbed a handful of times for a reason - it's big and loose and a long day! For a day trip it's anywhere from 12-16 hours minimum and a bivy gives you more time on the tricky upper 2000 feet.


Vern Dewit
vern.dewit is offline  
Quote
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #2 of (permalink) Old 08-27-2013, 12:15 PM
High on the Mountain Top
 
Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: Vancouver, BC
Posts: 1,036
Default

Very well done, Vern and Raff,

Liam and I almost went up this giant a couple weeks ago but he couldn't come at the last minute (got Wilcox/Chephren instead). You guys certainly make our lives (slightly) easier.

How was the water source on the bivy?
StevenSong is offline  
post #3 of (permalink) Old 08-27-2013, 12:38 PM Thread Starter
High on the Mountain Top
 
vern.dewit's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Calgary, Alberta, Canada.
Posts: 1,166
Default

Please, for the love of all that's good in the world, don't do it this year... Give me ONE summit that you don't repeat a week later!! [B)] (Raff and I seriously talked about not reporting this one 'til winter!)

I'm not giving ANY more beta until next year. [)]
vern.dewit is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #4 of (permalink) Old 08-27-2013, 01:01 PM
Headed for the Mountains
 
Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: Calgary, AB, Canada.
Posts: 169
Default

Quote:
quote:Originally posted by vern.dewit

Please, for the love of all that's good in the world, don't do it this year... Give me ONE summit that you don't repeat a week later!! [B)] (Raff and I seriously talked about not reporting this one 'til winter!)

I'm not giving ANY more beta until next year. [)]
By next year Steven will probably have more peaks bagged than you and we'll all be going to him for beta...[]
Matthew.Hobbs is offline  
post #5 of (permalink) Old 08-27-2013, 01:03 PM Thread Starter
High on the Mountain Top
 
vern.dewit's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Calgary, Alberta, Canada.
Posts: 1,166
Default

Quote:
quote:Originally posted by Matthew.Hobbs
By next year Steven will probably have more peaks bagged than you and we'll all be going to him for beta...[]
Steven's already done more in two years than I managed in TEN. But he FINALLY got Mount Assiniboine after trying for 3 weekends... LOL [}]

(All in good fun Steven - there's no water source at the bivy.)
vern.dewit is offline  
post #6 of (permalink) Old 08-27-2013, 01:53 PM
High on the Mountain Top
 
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Okotoks, Alberta, Canada.
Posts: 1,891
Default


Sweet shot!
Sodbuster is offline  
post #7 of (permalink) Old 08-27-2013, 09:19 PM
Headed for the Mountains
 
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: Edmonton, AB, Canada.
Posts: 271
Default

Awesome stuff Vern and Raff, and a great read as well!
Arcturus is offline  
post #8 of (permalink) Old 08-04-2015, 02:16 PM
High on the Mountain Top
 
Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: Vancouver, BC
Posts: 1,036
Default

My version of Mt. Murchison's trip report.
http://stevensong.com/mount-murchison

Solo, day-trip from the parking lot. I found it not too terribly hard. Not saying I would recommend it to scramblers but if you can do the top-end Kane's and Nugara's (Old Goat, Smuts, Northover in particular) then you're probably (technically) ready for Murchison. One big challenge is the length of the day combined with the amount of route-finding and hands-on scrambling on loose ground.
StevenSong is offline  
post #9 of (permalink) Old 08-04-2015, 08:16 PM Thread Starter
High on the Mountain Top
 
vern.dewit's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Calgary, Alberta, Canada.
Posts: 1,166
Default

Good work. Big mountain for a solo objective, but at least nobody is kicking rocks down on your head!

And of course you didn't find it "that hard" - 4th and low 5th class is pretty tame stuff for you after 400 peaks in less than 4 years...

Vern Dewit
vern.dewit is offline  
post #10 of (permalink) Old 08-04-2015, 08:42 PM
Summit Master
 
zeljkok's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2009
Location: Anywhere but social media
Posts: 4,921
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by vern.dewit View Post

And of course you didn't find it "that hard" - 4th and low 5th class is pretty tame stuff for you after 400 peaks in less than 4 years...
I was thinking along the same lines. It's actually quite amazing - would be interesting to see if this is some kind of record. I doubt anyone came even close.

But eventually Yoko Ono must come into the picture and break the spell
zeljkok is online now  
post #11 of (permalink) Old 08-04-2015, 11:22 PM
Headed for the Mountains
 
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: Edmonton, AB, .
Posts: 217
Default

I see from Steven's report that he climbed Mt Bogart the next day for number 400. That man just does not rest! Congratulations Steven, and best of luck on the next 400.
Semi Awesome is offline  
Reply

Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page



Posting Rules  
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On

 
For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome
 

Search Engine Optimization by vBSEO 3.6.1