Who: Steven Kluiters and myself.
When: Sept 26-29, 2016
Where: Sunshine Village parking lot (approx 15k W of Banff) to Vista Lake trailhead, 56k.



It was raining pretty much the whole drive down from Mackenzie.. Not a very auspicious beginning, and it didn't stop there.. I made it down to Banff just as it got dark, and left a bike at where we were to come out, at the Vista Lake trail head. I was hoping we wouldn't have to use it, as 37km even on a bike would be a loooong way after an already fairly long hike. I drove back into town and got something to eat at the Athena Pizza and Spaghetti house, based on a favourable review from a camper we talked to at Lake O'Hara. I had the house special, and it was alright, but nothing to write home about.. I had decided to camp at the Tunnel Campground, but figured why pay for just a place to sleep, so I just found what I hoped was a quiet spot and tried to sleep in the back of the CRV.. But I was too lazy to get my sleeping bag out of my backpack, and so by about 4am I was cold, so had to start the car and warm up, and by this time there was a surprising amount of traffic where I was stopped, so by around 5 I gave up and just drove to the Greyhound station to pick up Steven, who had bused up from Vancouver for the hike. We got a snack at Subway then drove to the Sunshine Village parking lot. The weather was looking much more promising, with big patches of blue sky. Then the final blow came.. I'd forgotten the food! Steven was to carry it all, as I had the tent, etc, so I'd packed it separately. Not good! But we rolled with it as best we could, high-tailing it back to Banff to do a quick grocery shop. Noodles, pepperoni sticks, and lots of chocolate bars instead of all the goodies I'd carefully put together at home, but oh well, could have been worse! So a bit of a late start, but by 10am we were back and found the trail head at the rear of the substantial Sunshine Village lodge.



There are buses that you can take to the meadows up top for $29 per person, but I'm guessing that's for hiking 'tourists', as it really is a piece of cake getting to the pass. The ascent is gradual and tree-bound but well marked and enjoyable.







Soon we broke into the meadow and we got our first glimpses of the larches. Man, it was like stepping into the land of King Midas, and the weather was cooperating with me finally, blue sky and warm. I was surprised how soft the needles were, like cat whiskers. This day, this valley, was ample compensation for the mildly disappointing weather we had at Lake Ohara earlier in the month. At last I was in the right place at the right time! I was snapping pictures left and right, but gradually we made it to Healy Pass and stopped to soak it all in and get something to eat.















There were quite a few hikers about doing the same thing, but most turned around and headed back towards Sunshine Village. I took a peak at the other side of the pass and got good views of Egypt Lake and the surrounding mountains that we would be getting up close and personal with in the coming days.





We met 2 or three coming up from Egypt Lake, but not many. It was a fairly steep descent compared with the very gradual climb on the other side of the pass.



But soon enough we were at the warden cabin, and a short distance later we were at the Egypt Lake camp. There is a shelter that you can reserve, but we didn't, and none of the 8 or so other hikers in the campground had either, so that tells you something. It was quite smelly (smoke) and dirty in there.. There are no camp fires allowed at the Egypt Lake camp, but we saw plenty of fire rings around the tent pads and in the field.. Very ignorant, and that's what's spoiled it for everyone in the first place, but whatever. I'm learning that even in the backcountry one can't escape this 'who cares, as long as I get mine?' behavior.











We got our tent up, hung our food at the bear hang (at what I think is an over-cautious distance away from the tent pads and water source - the river, but what do I know? Better than too close, I guess) and then went to check out Egypt Lake.







I made the mistake of joining Steven in jumping in for a QUICK dip.. Here is my 'takethepicturetakethepicturetakethepicture Judas PRIEST this %$#@ water is cold!' pose.. I got out immediately, then made the further mistake of jumping in again, thinking it would get more tolerable.. It did not.. Quite the opposite!



(Continued...)

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After this we decided to try and make it up to Pharaoh and possibly Black Rock lake before losing the sun. It was a stiff climb, something I wasn't particularly up for by this point in the day, and unfortunately we didn't make it in time, but at least we tried.. We should have dropped our packs and did our exploring and THEN set up tents, etc. Oh well.









It rained during the night. Damn that Calgarian who jinxed us by setting up that tarp over the dining area table so pessimistically yesterday! Steven snored all night as well, so I didn't get the best sleep.. Oh well, at least they guy let us use his tarp for breakfast..



It started to clear up shortly after, though, so we hurriedly broke camp and got a move on out of there, up the steep climb around the Pharaoh Peak to Whistling Pass.









We paused at a viewpoint showing us the valley we had camped in, and good views of Egypt Lake.





Then we took another side trip down to Scarab Lake and Scarab Falls.













After this we continued with our upwards journey to Whistling Pass. We didn't linger, as it was very windy (hence the name, I'm guessing).











Looking back the way we came down, and heading to Haiduk Lake:







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We made it down to Haiduk (means 'snake' in Ukrainian, and I guess Egyptian?) lake and had lunch, then pushed on for 3km or so to Ball Joint campground.















Again I found the eating/bear hang area annoyingly distant from the camp/watersource.. But I guess it wouldn't be so annoying if a bear decided to check things out, so.. Just deal. I turned in early so I could hopefully catch up on some sleep, which I was able to, as Steven didn't snore at all this night.. Must have taken the relentless ball-busting I gave him yesterday to heart..

I was fairly stuffed up and headachy in the morning, though.. I should have worn a neck gaiter when going through that pass yesterday, given the stupid dip I'd taken in the lake that day..

This section heading to Shadow Lake was really marshy and mucky..





We passed some young Parks people, guy and a girl, doing some trail maintenance.. Keep it up! This trail was great for signage, trail condition (besides this section btw, Ball and Shadow Lake), and the removal of dead-fall.







I'm betting this tread is from the Parks guy, from the recentness, and his height..



He left a mushroom out for collection on the way back (the 'easy' way through Redearth trail, I'm sure). Anyone know what kind it is?





We made it to the Shadow Lake Lodge and had lunch. It looks like a fairly neat place for snowshoeing and cross-country skiing, and horses.. Not so much for hikers or campers given the condition of the trail to Shadow lake (but maybe it gets better heading to the hwy?). I dunno, though, gas fireplaces in the huts, no big fire pit out front? Heated showers would be nice, and the toilet had a clear roof so you could actually see in there with the door closed. I'll have to see how much they want per night..











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More Shadow Lake Lodge photos, and the relatively dumpy Shadow Lake Campground just down the way:

















After that we had more more up, up, up to look forward to heading to Gibbon Pass. We looked back in time to catch this little guy. There were 4 of them, but I wasn't able to get a wide shot of them all..







But the huffing and puffing was brief at least, 2km with an elevation gain of 450m.


When you make it this far, the worst is over..












We lingered here for quite a while, wooing the sun that would peak out for a few minutes at a time.. But soon enough, before we started to feel like never getting up again, we headed down to Lower Twin Lake..






A shot of Upper Twin Lake:



Bridge across the run-off of Upper Twin Lake, headed to Lower Twin Lake campground:







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Lower Twin was probably my favourite, as far as views, and the tighter proximity of water, bear hang/eating/ and outhouse.





I was feeling lousy what with my cold, and it being a cold camp in general, so I turned in early (around 5), with only my Gem map to read, as I didn't have room for a book (I'll make room next time, never again!), Steven enjoyed the piece and quiet by the lake until dusk..

The morning was crisp and clear,







But we made slow going of it, as I'd neglected to treat some water before going to bed, so breakfast took a whole lot longer. I didn't sleep very well again, with my stuffed head and chills. But one last push up the spur to Arnika Lake (a piece of cake after 3 mountain passes) then a sharp decline down to Vista (I felt sorry for those poor bastards we passed going up), and out!







Arnica Lake:



First view of the highway:





View of Vista Lake and the trailhead parking lot:





Vista Lake:















And that was it, 56k and three mountain passes done and dusted! We got out around 2pm, and luckily we didn't need to use the bike. I thumbed ineffectively for about 45 minutes before a couple coming back from Arnica Lake agreed to give Steven a ride to the Sunshine Villiage Road, where he was able to hitch another ride to the parking lot and the CRV. He made it back around 4pm, and by the time I dropped Steven off at the Banff Greyhound it was time to get moving on home, toot sweet, as I didn't get home till about 1am.

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This is a classic backpack, specially in larch season.

Couple of remarks/corrections:

1) Haiduk does not mean snake, but "outlaw". Not just in Ukrainian but same root for several other Slavic languages

2) Bus from end of Sunshine road goes in totally opposite direction, to Sunshine ski area. You can then hike to Healy via Simpson Pass, but it is considerably longer. Most direct way is what you did. Road itself is ~5km and 450-500 vertical and can be done in about an hour (just did it yesterday).

3) I believe Whistling Pass name comes because of marmots, not because of wind. Peak above (Greater Pharaoh Peak) is feasible as long day-trip from Sunshine via Healy pass. I had it planned this season, but fell through for one reason or the other

4) Egypt Lake camp area is bit of Rockies response to Joffre lakes mess (nowhere as drastic). Very accessible and as result onslaught specially in summer. Bad rap about that shelter is well known; your impression only confirmed it.

Oh my goodness Doug, I am so glad you took the time and trouble to post this. What a superb read. Your photos are outstanding, especially some of the larch ones. I enjoyed your Facebook post about your trip, but this is so much better! Thank you for letting me go vicariously to the area through your photos.

Hmmm.. I've heard a few colloquialisms for 'bandit' in Ukrainian, but never that one.. 'Snake' in Ukrainian is actually pronounced "Haid'YOU'ka" (гайдюка), but I thought it might have got lost in translation, as it just seemed to fit, thematically, scarab beetles and snakes being Egyptian demigods..

Glad you enjoyed it, Susie, it was a gooder!

yup, I second that haiduk (haiduc) means outlaw or bandit in some Eastern European languages.

Dougz, these are some beautiful pictures! glad to see that you took camera batteries to last you the entire trip, haha!

Yes, hopefully I've bucked the trend!!

This is actually interesting.
Snake would be expected considering Egyptian theme for the area. But snake in Ukrainian is Змія ("zmiia" -- also consistent with host of other Slavic languages), while Haiduk is as I said outlaw. But at online Ukrainian encyclopedia is this:

However I find on Shadow Lodge webpage 3rd meaning:

I like lively young woman option best

Curiouser and curiouser.. An Irishman pulling an Eastern European slang term out of his hat for a lake?

Yeah I couldn't find the root of the Ukrainian 'hadiuka', but that's the term everyone used for snake, never Змія.. But 2 years is hardly a definitive sampling..

Like I say, snake would make more sense, thematically.. But oh well, hoiden it is..

never mind the snake, I want to know where the dog is?
Dougz, you really need to pick your hikes better so that he can join you too!

I think he could have come on this one, actually.. But he wouldn't have been happy about it. Bit nippy for him.. LOL

Nice trip report, well done btw.

I'm not so sure about the "impression"; if I could intervene. Granted, I avoid the place and the shelter in the summer but then I avoid the whole place in the summer. I normally inhabit the shelter after thnxgiving(assuming the snow level is minimal) OR I ski in when the snow level is up. I prefer the latter. As for the condition of the shelter it really is quite acceptable and with a fireplace to heat same it really is quite comfortable. There's a broom there and if dirt's a problem the wooden floors can be easily swept. The smoke smell is inevitable.......comes with the territory; I'll take the heat in trade