Hey All,

Reading some TR's from the past few years I'm confused what the conditions are on Blanchard for getting back down the crux. Rap off a tree? Permanent webbing of an undetermined age? I've seen both mentioned.

While I'm at it, I've read a number of different routes up (Evans peak trail, aloutte from inside the park, etc) which would you say is the more accessible option?

General advice on the route is much appreciated, none my group have been up into the GE area before and we're hoping to take advantage of this freakishly early start to the season.

Thanks!

What makes you think that its an early start to climbing on the needle, you dont think it will be in winter conditions up there? Lower down its likely spring, so I am guessing that the fly gully route will not be very good. Bring a sling if you are worried about downclimbing the step at the start, and yes the sling would go on a tree.

Hey Ryl,

I used the Evans Peak - Alouette Mountain trail, which spurs off from the Viewpoint Trail; approximately 1.54km mark. There's snarled tree branch just above the crux, which we used for rappel anchor. I would add that climbing up was a bit nerve-racking without any rock protection. The climbing is relatively easy, but 5th class without protection always has me on my toes; literally at times, haha.

Others have stated that they found climbing easy enough that they would downclimb. Though, In all those reports I read, they did however end up rappelling the crux. I myself appreciated the rope on the way down; 30m short rope, 1" tubular webbing (4m length), a couple rappel rings, knife, prussik cord. I found anchors at different points aside from the crux. Personally, I found that the crux was the only section that required a rappel.

Hope that helps,
Pardeep

You can get in a good medium nut about halfway up, from what I remember.

You rap off a tree. Bring some extra webbing if you think Pardeep's or Ed's will be unsafe by now

There's no snow at all in Fly's Gully from what I heard. Makes approaching via Alouette more attractive

Thanks everyone, that's exactly the detail I was looking for!

J Mace: EAK mentioned earlier in the month that conditions on the needle were similar to July already. While I don't doubt there's some snow left in spots, can't deny this is looking like the earliest spring start we've had in at least a decade.

On my ride in yesterday I noticed crown had some new snow on it. Freezing levels were low on Sunday. But it looked pretty barren on my ride home. Good luck

Last time I was on there (July last summer) there was about 4 rap anchors. It is probably overkill, but you can rap about half of the climb. At the time, I thought they were all pretty decent. If they do need replacing, please cut the old anchor and carry it back to a garbage somewhere in civilization.